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You need an adapter that will output 2.5mm centre positive, such as the Diago "green" adapter:
https://www.andertons.co.uk/p/DIAGOPS03/power-supplies/diago-ps03-green-adaptor-centre-positive-25mm-barrel
View my feedback at www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/comment/1201922
View my feedback at www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/comment/1201922
I'm almost certain the DL-4 will run on 9VDC, in fact - the internal DC voltage is actually only 6V, and is regulated down from 9 to 6 immediately after the rectifier. I think an extra 3V is sufficient to get the regulator operating. I don't have my DL-4 any more to check, but I'm pretty sure I did actually run it on a 9V daisy chain.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
View my feedback at www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/comment/1201922
Powering it with a supply with too *little* voltage or current capability won't damage it, although it could overload the power supply and make that shut down - no properly-designed modern supply would actually be damaged though.
I have to say I'm quite suspicious that a DL-4 for £20 was not likely to have been sold in the full knowledge that it was working, though... given that the going rate is around £100.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
The DL-4, as designed, expects a 9VAC signal, which is non-polarized at the jack. At the power input of the DL-4 is a rectifier/filter that turns the 9VAC into 6VDC. That 6VDC line is tapped to the battery line, which is 4 D batteries (4 * 1.5VDC per battery = 6VDC). That 6VDC is used to generate all the operating voltages within the unit (6VDC, 3.3VDC, 6.6VDC, and 5VDC). Notice that what makes the DL4 REALLY work are all DC voltages.
Now wouldnt it be nice if we could use a DC supply from our VDL Pedal Power to bypass that rectifier circuit? Pay attention.
Diode rectifier/filter circuits CAN accept a DC signal with no damage to the circuit. The rectifier circuit will just simply pass the DC signal (with a voltage drop because of the forward drop of the rectifier diodes). It will rectify an already-rectified signal. Because of the diode voltage drop, you have to feed it a slightly higher DC voltage to get the same output as you would with an AC voltage. That's why the VDL PP has a dip switch to up the DC voltage from 9V to something higher (12-14VDC, lets just say 12VDC for this argument). But because you are using a DC supply now, polarity matters! And in the case of this circuit, it must be center-positive to prevent from reverse biasing the semiconductors and blowing them up.
As far as current draw goes, a circuit will only draw what it needs. So most ratings are given as a maximum expected current draw times some safety factor (usually 50%). So in a worst case scenario, a circuit will draw 100mA, so a designer may recommend a 150mA rated adapter.
That said, you have 2 ways to power a DL4: 9VAC or 12VDC. Remember, AC and DC power draws are measured differently. Straight DC voltage is able to supply more current than an equivalent VAC supply. So at 12VDC, it may only require a max of 200mA, but at 9VAC it may require 1200mA. That's why the VDL guy and the DL4 guy give you different current draw ratings. Also, they both may be assuming 2 different safety factors!
When youre comparing electrical power, you have to make sure youre talking the same voltage levels, voltage types, load, etc. It happens all the time in pro-audio. A car stereo maker will take a peak to peak VAC measurement across some frequency range into a 16ohm speaker and calculate power from that. A tube amp maker will take it from an RMS measurement over a different freq range in an 8ohm speaker. And then the listener wonders why a 200W car stereo is no where NEAR as loud as a 100W tube amp."View my feedback at www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/comment/1201922
The 200mA/1200mA statement is wrong too. It will draw the same current at either, if the supplies are the same voltage (assuming the AC voltage is RMS). In fact it will draw slightly more current at a higher voltage, not less - the extra will be wasted generating heat in the regulator before reaching the final 6V.
@impmann may have some further advice, but in the case of a non-functioning Line 6 pedal like this, the first thing to do is check that all the chips which are mounted in holders are seated tightly. Give each one a squirt of contact cleaner if you have some, and press it firmly into the holder.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein