Superglue as a Guitar Finish?

Rabs

Interesting... Anyone tried this?

Winny_Pooh

Very cool

WezV

I tried it as a grain filler years ago... probably after a conversation with BigD on projectguitar 

its very messy, and will have you in tears, literally.  It’s very hard to sand too. 

There are much easier and safer methods

Jez6345789

Same experience as WezV
have a load of thick superglue at work that I tried grain filling a walnut sample piece with with the view I might then top coat it. I did it out of door and the smell is not healthy it was a still day.

then the sanding as said is hard and even on a test piece the dust is horrible you need a decent mask as the stuff is evil.

i love a quick finish but found this stuff just nasty nasty

randella

I've tried drop filling the odd lacquer ding with it, and concur with the view that it's horrible stuff.  Went back to using cellulose lacquer for that job - you'll still need a proper mask but it sands so much more easily.  Doesn't stick your fingers together either which Superglue, however careful you are with it, eventually will.

As for filling grain or small wood dings, Rustin's grain filler is the best thing I've found (not that I'm any great expert in these matters).

WezV

randella said:

I've tried drop filling the odd lacquer ding with it, and concur with the view that it's horrible stuff.  Went back to using cellulose lacquer for that job - you'll still need a proper mask but it sands so much more easily.  Doesn't stick your fingers together either which Superglue, however careful you are with it, eventually will.

As for filling grain or small wood dings, Rustin's grain filler is the best thing I've found (not that I'm any great expert in these matters).

 I still use it for drop fills - small amounts are manageable

I tend to skip grainfilling most of the time these days,  I haven't found one I like.

 dings always gets steamed out before the last stages of finish sanding

guitars4you

WezV said:

 I still use it for drop fills - small amounts are manageable

I'm not as skilled as you guys on such jobs, but on small jobs and if very careful, I can make it work with no visible signs of the original nick after the work is done (or almost no signs and I know where to look) - don't get uptight about a small nick on a body on a used guitar, but if it is on the neck and you can feel it, then ideal to solve the issue

Rabs

Hmm.. Interesting..  Cheers guys...

Ive only used super glue for binding and for filling in the tiny gaps you get on inlays..  It works well for that..

I think I will stick to tru oil

WezV

Rabs said:

Hmm.. Interesting..  Cheers guys...

Ive only used super glue for binding and for filling in the tiny gaps you get on inlays..  It works well for that..

I think I will stick to tru oil

Nah, try it.  You should really try as many different methods as possible as this may be the one that works for you.  

Rabs

WezV said:

Rabs said:

Hmm.. Interesting..  Cheers guys...

Ive only used super glue for binding and for filling in the tiny gaps you get on inlays..  It works well for that..

I think I will stick to tru oil

Nah, try it.  You should really try as many different methods as possible as this may be the one that works for you.  

Well I have a spalted top I want to use at some point.. I may try it for that since I know they can be a bit weak so is almost a necessity for those kind of woods (well from what I have read, but haven't actualy done a top like that yet). But I reckon for most woods I will stick with oil...

WezV

Some spalt is okay without, but if you have soft areas it’s worth soaking in the thinnest superglue you can get.


wilkos sell a value superglue that’s quite good for this, and much cheaper than proper branded thin CA

Rabs

WezV said:

Some spalt is okay without, but if you have soft areas it’s worth soaking in the thinnest superglue you can get.


wilkos sell a value superglue that’s quite good for this, and much cheaper than proper branded thin CA

Ok, cool I will check that out...

This is the top I have

https://i.imgur.com/Mzpc2Ly.jpg

Gizmo

Ive only ever used it like a lot of other ppl here as a drop filler,can be a pain in the ass to sand level so i tend to use dan earlywines method of a razor and clear tape to shave away any excess before sanding flush/buffing...

A few years back it was all the rage on talkbass'es builders page as a fretless fb finish i never got around to trying it though my local home bargain's does some super thin viscosity tubes of SG @ 39p a tube i might grab a few extra and try it on a scrap piece see how it goes

Has anyone ever use the "Massy Finish" my bro who's into bow's and stuff was talking about it a few days ago when i was banging on about how great/fast i though RPC was as a finish,Seems its used a lot in on staves and arrows and is 2 party epoxy thinned with acetone,thanks to photobucket fucking up the net i can only find thumbnails iamges of the results

For Spalt & unstable burls ive used Ronseal Wet Rot Wood Hardener and soaked the pieces i used in a bath of it over night then let it dry on a pin board for 48 hours,it does darken the wood a little but worked well,nasty stuff though so make sure you use it outside and wear a good mask

TheMarlin

Just because you can, doesn’t mean you should. 

WezV

TheMarlin said:

Just because you can, doesn’t mean you should. 

I don't understand 

TheMarlin

WezV said:

TheMarlin said:

Just because you can, doesn’t mean you should. 

I don't understand 

It may be possible to use superglue as a finish,  but with such a wide offering of quality finishes available, why would you.  That's what I meant.,

WezV

TheMarlin said:

WezV said:

TheMarlin said:

Just because you can, doesn’t mean you should. 

I don't understand 

It may be possible to use superglue as a finish,  but with such a wide offering of quality finishes available, why would you.  That's what I meant.,

I knew what you meant really, but it’s good to encourage people to form their own opinion sometimes