Which year R9 / R8

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I've been looking at R8's & R9's recently. I have been to a local shop to try out a few models and loved a Historic standard 2018 R8 with a 59 neck. The custom buckers sounded amazing. It seems Gibson find something new every year that makes this years model the closest yet. I've done my own research and found generally most say to avoid 2012 models due to the fretboard being a 2 piece construction? Does anyone have more info on what has been added each year to make them as close to an original as possible? or which year is thought to be generally the better one. I know their are good ones and bad ones from every year but for example would a 2014 model be seen as a good one?
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Comments

  • OssyrocksOssyrocks Frets: 1673
    2014 was a good year. Before the 2015 CS models came in. I’ve had three 2014’s, all were great guitars. Differences over previous years being the hide glue and the truss rod, the truss rod making the most difference I think. 
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  • KylefKylef Frets: 1042
    Wiz for Ossyrocks. My R9 is a 2014, the best R9 I've had and I've had a few years. My R7 was also a '14 and was a great guitar. I do agree the differences from '14 onwards make a difference.
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  • BrizeBrize Frets: 5630
    There's no difference between 2013 and 2014 guitars - they were the same spec and generally considered the best years before the line split with the True Historic/Standard Historic nonsense. That said, you obviously need to judge each guitar on its merits - my best playing and sounding Custom Shop Les Paul is a 2012 model.
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  • I got my R9 back in 2012...it was being sold as 'Yamano spec' (that's a whole 'nother thread right there) and I have never had the nut off so don't know about the fretboard construction.

    I do know that, after installing a set of Monty's PAFs, it rocks ;)

    I think the 'two-piece' stigma would affect resale...so looking for a used 2012 could be a wise move...although we've seen good prices on 2013/2014 spec instruments too! I get confused after that point.
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  • I actually lean toward a 2003 Braz board Goldtop- proper Honduran Mahogany bodies, aniline dyes, good thin/brittle finishes that actually weather check and of course BRW which does carry a premium for me- they’re also stupidly cheap as no one wants a Goldtop! :-)
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  • Arktik83Arktik83 Frets: 431
    I've personally had a 2014 R8 and a 2013 R7 (the R7 I currently own) and they are both superb guitars.  Like @digitalkettle said, some people do get upset over the two piece fingerboard which may work in your favour if you're not that sensitive to something that is basically intangible.  

    Of course, if you can try before you buy, always do that.  I've never tried an R9 but an R8 neck is a handful!

    Good Luck!
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  • crunchmancrunchman Frets: 11463
    You can find great ones in any year.  They do vary so go and try a bunch until you find one you like.
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  • RandallFlaggRandallFlagg Frets: 13955
    I had a 2007 R9 and now have a 2016 R8. The 2016 custom buckers sound much nicer than the pickups that were in the 2007 and the VOS treatment is subtler. 

    I woud go for any year with the custom buckers, which were introduced in 2013 I think?


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  • rsvmarkrsvmark Frets: 1383
    The advice I received when I sourced mine was generally the later, the better up to the 2015 true historic shenanigans. Play them all as there are good uns and bad uns in all years. This seems to match up with the comments above in general
    An official Foo liked guitarist since 2024
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