Laney Cub 10 failing

What's Hot
antifashantifash Frets: 603
Wonder if any amp experts know what might be up here. All tubes still glow etc. I’ve had them checked. 

The volume dips after a while and when I turn the amp back up, I get a farty speaker. It’s not an expensive amp, but it’s pretty nice sounding. 

If anyone has any ideas, or knows a decent amp repair place around Leicester / E Mids, let me know. 

Thanks!
0reaction image LOL 0reaction image Wow! 0reaction image Wisdom
«1

Comments

  • ICBMICBM Frets: 72521
    Quite likely the thermistor in the filament power supply - it's a very common problem with these.

    Do the valves glow less or not at all when it goes quiet? If so it's that.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

    0reaction image LOL 0reaction image Wow! 0reaction image Wisdom
  • antifashantifash Frets: 603
    @ICBM I think that when I’ve checked, they continue to glow much the same. I’ve had it looked at twice now, but there’s still something going awry. I’ll check again. Thanks. ;)
    0reaction image LOL 0reaction image Wow! 0reaction image Wisdom
  • ICBMICBM Frets: 72521
    Another possibility if the volume dip is sudden rather than over a few seconds is a partial short in the OT. I've come across that a couple of times with them too.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

    0reaction image LOL 1reaction image Wow! 1reaction image Wisdom
  • antifashantifash Frets: 603
    @ICBM Output Transformer? 
    0reaction image LOL 0reaction image Wow! 0reaction image Wisdom
  • ICBMICBM Frets: 72521
    antifash said:
    @ICBM Output Transformer? 
    Yes. Is the volume dip sudden or gradual?

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

    0reaction image LOL 0reaction image Wow! 0reaction image Wisdom
  • DJH83004DJH83004 Frets: 196
    I have to agree with IC that it sounds like the classic thermistor problem that does plague this range of amps, if it is then a pretty straightforward fix, If you are struggling to get a local amp tech, I am based in Notts if you don’t mind the travel.
    0reaction image LOL 0reaction image Wow! 1reaction image Wisdom
  • antifashantifash Frets: 603
    @ICBM Pretty sudden I’d say. @DJH83004 Don’t mind the travel if you think it’s worth a repair. Will drop you a PM. Thanks both. 
    0reaction image LOL 0reaction image Wow! 0reaction image Wisdom
  • ive had the same or similar with my cub 12, it was an intermittent fault, turn it off and on sometimes and was ok. Ive taken it to two techs, both times they couldnt replicate the fault so it went unfixed. can be ok for a couple of hours then drops out. its not the fault of the early ones that had a thermistor that cut out as mine doesnt have this.
    0reaction image LOL 0reaction image Wow! 0reaction image Wisdom
  • I had the same thing on my Cub 10. I took it in the end to HiQ Sound in Lincoln http://www.hiqsound.co.uk/
    Mark there did some bits to it (not sure) and it is now fine. Well worth a try.

    It's a super sounding amp, and very loud too so I was glad to get it fixed. Hope you get yours sorted @antifash ;
    0reaction image LOL 0reaction image Wow! 0reaction image Wisdom
  • VoxmanVoxman Frets: 4727
    edited January 2018
    DJH83004 said:
    I have to agree with IC that it sounds like the classic thermistor problem that does plague this range of amps, if it is then a pretty straightforward fix, If you are struggling to get a local amp tech, I am based in Notts if you don’t mind the travel.
    Actually guys, I don't think its that - I have a Laney 12R Cub and had the thermistor problem. Once the thermistor trips, no sound comes from the amp at all until it cools down.  Laney fixed that under warranty.

    The other problem I had, that DV247 fixed under their in-store 5 yr warranty, could match the OP's symptoms. There was a loose connection on the ceramic tube holder of one of the power tubes that meant the amp lost its volume and went distorted even at lower volumes.  DV247 also replaced the cheap red 'on' light and installed a really good quality one. 

    Since those two fixes my Cub has been perfect. I re-tubed it and replaced the crappy Chinese Ruby tubes with a full set of JJ hand-tested tubes, and swapped the rubbish 95dB Celestion Rocket 50 with a Vintage 30.  What a difference in volume, clean and crunch tones!  It's a smashing little amp that's deceptively loud - the Vintage 30 with its 100dB sensitivity probably makes it nearer equivalent to a 20-25w amp in volume.  
    I started out with nothing..... but I've still got most of it left (Seasick Steve)
    0reaction image LOL 0reaction image Wow! 1reaction image Wisdom
  • antifashantifash Frets: 603
    Hey @voxman that sounds exactly like my problem. Thank you. @DJH83004 is that still a straightforward (ish) fix? 
    0reaction image LOL 0reaction image Wow! 0reaction image Wisdom
  • DJH83004DJH83004 Frets: 196
    edited January 2018
    antifash said:
    Hey @voxman that sounds exactly like my problem. Thank you. @DJH83004 is that still a straightforward (ish) fix? 
    To be honest if it is simply a dry joint on one of the valve bases, its an even easier fix and certainly worth doing as they are cracking little amps. If you want me to take a look I am more than happy to, the only down side is I will need it for about a week due to my backlog, but can loan you an amp if you need one.  
    0reaction image LOL 0reaction image Wow! 0reaction image Wisdom
  • antifashantifash Frets: 603
    @DJH83004 No worries at all on time. I've got flu atm so not going anywhere...

    0reaction image LOL 0reaction image Wow! 0reaction image Wisdom
  • antifashantifash Frets: 603
    edited January 2018
    @Voxman Was that an 8ohm speaker you put in there? And could you point me to the right tubes pls? Thanks!

    0reaction image LOL 0reaction image Wow! 0reaction image Wisdom
  • I still think the Cub 10 (and the Cub 12 - although I've never used that) is a majorly under-recognised amp. There very affordable and sound superb. When you see tests of small low-wattage amps these never seem to get a look-in. Much prefer my Cub 10 to a Blues Jr
    0reaction image LOL 0reaction image Wow! 0reaction image Wisdom
  • ive had 3 of them at various times, i love the sound and feel of them. my only problem is each of them has always developed faults, i dont know whether ive been unlucky or if they are badly constructed which is a shame., I also have a laney vc30 that at 10 years or so has never had any problems apart from a crackly switch fixed with (servisol). my cub, ive just started a thread for it, has one last chance to be fixed before i bin it.
    0reaction image LOL 0reaction image Wow! 0reaction image Wisdom
  • DJH83004DJH83004 Frets: 196
    antifash said:
    @Voxman Was that an 8ohm speaker you put in there? And could you point me to the right tubes pls? Thanks!

    I wouldn't worry about replacing valves until the basic problem is sorted. JJs definitely for the output valves and really pre-amp valves of your choice, I personally like JJs but people do say they lack a bit of sparkle.     
    0reaction image LOL 0reaction image Wow! 0reaction image Wisdom
  • VoxmanVoxman Frets: 4727
    edited January 2018
    DJH83004 said:
    antifash said:
    @Voxman Was that an 8ohm speaker you put in there? And could you point me to the right tubes pls? Thanks!

    I wouldn't worry about replacing valves until the basic problem is sorted. JJs definitely for the output valves and really pre-amp valves of your choice, I personally like JJs but people do say they lack a bit of sparkle.     
    @antifash ;;Yes to 8 Ohm, and JJ's as per @DJH83004 I'd fix the problem first - always assuming that what you're experiencing isn't actually a duff tube somewhere in the first place - I went JJ for power & pre-amp but I opted for the handtested higher grade ones with matched power-tubes, and it has tons of sparkle.  
    I started out with nothing..... but I've still got most of it left (Seasick Steve)
    0reaction image LOL 0reaction image Wow! 0reaction image Wisdom
  • ICBMICBM Frets: 72521
    ive had 3 of them at various times, i love the sound and feel of them. my only problem is each of them has always developed faults, i dont know whether ive been unlucky or if they are badly constructed which is a shame., I also have a laney vc30 that at 10 years or so has never had any problems apart from a crackly switch fixed with (servisol). my cub, ive just started a thread for it, has one last chance to be fixed before i bin it.
    I have to say I've never been very impressed by Laney's build quality. I know a lot of people like them and don't have problems with them, but I do see quite a few broken ones. In my opinion they usually try to make things 'just good enough to get by' rather than doing them really properly. Mostly it works, sometimes it doesn't.

    It even extends to things like the poor quality of the covering vinyl and the glue that holds it on - I know this will sound like nit-picking, but not only does it lead to the amps looking tatty quickly, it's a major pain in the backside for techs - it often gets snagged on the chassis and makes taking the amp apart and putting it back together a time-wasting faff. The B&Q quality screws and crap handles are another sign of corner-cutting.

    Internally they aren't much better - even though a lot of people go on about how the valve sockets are chassis-mounted (on a lot of models) it's missing the point - I've come across many joints that were never properly soldered, and sockets so poor that the contacts need re-tensioning after *one* valve change. Weak transformers, and poor solutions to that like thermistors in the filament circuit also quite often cause trouble.

    I know this won't make me popular!

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

    0reaction image LOL 0reaction image Wow! 0reaction image Wisdom
  • VoxmanVoxman Frets: 4727
    edited January 2018
    I still think the Cub 10 (and the Cub 12 - although I've never used that) is a majorly under-recognised amp. There very affordable and sound superb. When you see tests of small low-wattage amps these never seem to get a look-in. Much prefer my Cub 10 to a Blues Jr
    Big +1 on that @lincolnblue !  - but I don't get the combo v head pricing on the 12R's - combo £266, head £268 (both GAK). You can still put the comb through any 8 or 16 Ohm cab.  The Cub 12R combo is a 1x12 with 2xEL84's and 3xECC83's; the Cub has 2 x 6V6GT (power) and 2 x ECC83's, but there's no reverb option on the 10's.  So, the 10's are more Fendery and the 12's more 'British' sounding.  Both are really nice little amps. However, the 10 has no effects loop, and only a single tone control, whereas the 12/12R has a full 3 band EQ (bass, mids, treble) plus an additional tone control. 




    I started out with nothing..... but I've still got most of it left (Seasick Steve)
    0reaction image LOL 0reaction image Wow! 0reaction image Wisdom
Sign In or Register to comment.