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This is a good little vid that goes in too the differences... I think one of the main differences is that with Tru Oil is better for building up the coats to get a shiny finish.
Also with Tru Oil theres a trick I use to make it thinner which makes it go on smoother and dry quicker.. Which is basically to add a tiny bit of white spirits to it.. I did a short vid on that
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From what hat I can gather tru oil is Tung oil but with added hardener.
Still not not sure I want an oil finish on this neck that coming but trying to keep options open.
only ever lacquered neck before!.
Nomad
Nobody loves me but my mother... and she could be jivin' too...
they look spectacular!. I spoke to Rothko to get my waterslides and mentioned your strat neck, can’t tell you how keen he was NOT to do that again... said it was very anxiety inducing!.
the more I look at the tru oil then more i can’t help thinking it’s just a wipe on lacquer... I will have to lacquer the face of the headstock for the waterslide, I may well give the back of the neck a light pass whilst I’m there.
bizarely enough I had a go on a custom shop strat relic with a rosewood neck last week. They appear to have piled the back of the neck but lacquerd the fret board!... compleate with worn out finger spots as part of the relic job... really weird!...
how does the eze oil differ from the others?
I’ve only used Eze and Wudtone. Eze was a Grahame recommendation, easy to apply, quick to dry and hard finish.
If you’re sticking with a decal, spray the headstock, oil and wax (Briwax) the back, it’ll feel amazing to play! I did the same for my sparkly JM build.
it can be used as a lacquer, but lacquer does it better. Try-oil works great when treated as an oil for me. If you are after high gloss you may as well use lacquer. Tru oil will get you there with a lot of work.
Its at the thicker end of the spectrum. Danish oil is usually half way between Tung and Tru in terms of thickness and drying times
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