Adding a Bigsby to a Hagstrom Viking P90

notanon

I have the red version of the Viking P90. I really do enjoy playing that but I would love to add a bigsby. Can this be done none destructively so it can be reverted if need be. I guess it would also be recommended to changed the bridge type - which of those? Anybody recommended to do this and what kind of cost. Would a cheaper licensed type Bigsby be ok or is the real Bigsby recommended? The Hagstrom version would be quite nice to keep the brand but all I can find that may be suitable is something like: http://www.hagstromparts.se/tremar_complete%.jpg

What kind of cost?

ICBM

It looks like there's enough break angle over the bridge that a Bigsby without a front tension bar will work.

A Bigsby B3 - or the cheaper licensed B30 - will fit with no *major* modification, although it's certain that the screw holes in the rim won't match so you will need to drill new ones. These will probably be covered by the original tailpiece if you put it back, but if not they're not very visible if filled and touched up (especially on a black guitar).

The bridge should be OK if you make sure the string grooves are smoothly polished and preferably lightly lubricated. You could replace it with a roller bridge if it proves to be a problem.

The work to fit the Bigsby and polish the bridge grooves shouldn't take any competent tech more than about an hour, so probably £40 or £50 - plus the Bigsby itself of course.

notanon

@ICBM thanks. This vid. covers quite nicely.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YR9NUngka90

notanon

Some people recommend change of nut and then bridge. Assuming a change of bridge what are the current recommended bridges that do not sap the tone but are adjustable for intonation?

Would anybody else bother adding a bigsby? Lot's of folk on the web say yes. The viking tremar doesn't have the Hagstrom P pickups AFAIU.

ICBM

That one is a B7, which needs two screws drilling into the front of the guitar - the B3 doesn't.

The critical thing to check is at 0'36" - if the strings didn't pass under the front tension bar but went straight from the rear roller to the bridge, would they still bend downwards over the bridge saddles? I think you can see that they would, so the B3 is OK. On many guitars with a less arched top, they don't - or so slightly that they then don't press hard enough on the saddles and will then buzz.

A fairly low angle is actually beneficial up to a point, since it reduces the friction at the saddles and the potential tuning problems. My Gretsch is like that - same bridge type as your guitar, and works fine.

notanon

@ICBM is this something you would interested in doing it or can you recommend anybody? I'm in south Wales but I could post in hard case.

I need to find a reasonable price B3 first i think unless a cheaper good quality alternative. I think I need to factor into the cost a new bridge.

If it becomes expensive I may try to get my hands on a Hagstrom Viking Tremar they have roller bridges and everything. Seem to be respected guitars.

If anybody interested then feel free to pm me with a price.

ICBM

notanon said:

@ICBM is this something you would interested in doing it or can you recommend anybody? I'm in south Wales but I could post in hard case.

Don't do that - never courier a guitar when you don't need to, it's probably the single riskiest thing you can do with it. There's bound to be someone local who can do it.

I don't know anyone personally, but I think there's someone here from south Wales... have a look in the Recommended Luthiers & Techs thread.

notanon said:

I think I need to factor into the cost a new bridge.

I wouldn't worry about it until it proves necessary.

notanon

@ICBM Cheers. Your time appreciated.