This is probably a long shot, but I've recently bought an old 1980s Marshall Master Lead Combo - a truly awesome solid state
amp which sounds absolutely amazing. My first ever amp was a lead 12 which at the tender age of 17 I really didn't appreciate (oh how I wish I'd kept hold of it!).
The amp's in need of some cosmetic attention - the usual brown faded grill problem, and a new Marshall logo required. The plastic end caps on the handle have been totally b*ggered (they are both split and have sustained some heavy duty screwdriver abuse!
I think what usually happens is that people try to remove them, and in the process they break the first one before googling the correct removal process (a small square of wood and a gentle tap with a hammer along the line of the handle - if anyone is interested!).
With this in mind, if there are any kind souls out there that have one or possibly two un-mullered ones that they wouldn't mind donating - I'll happily pay the postage. I know Marshall sell replacement handles, but the ends are different. I'd like to try to keep the amp as original looking as possible! PM me if you can help!
Many thanks!!!
Comments
For what it's worth, the correct removal method is to slide a small flat screwdriver along each *side* of the cover and spring it off - this should be obvious if you look at how it's held on. Tapping it off with a block of wood chews up the tang that holds it in place so it's less secure when you put it back.
If it was me I would probably replace the whole thing with a standard brass-ended reissue handle - they used those on the earliest examples of these amps, so it's not *that* historically wrong...
The faded grille is not a problem, it's an upgrade! There are people who genuinely believe it was a cosmetic option at the time, until you lift the logo and show them the 'negative' under it .
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
The hammer made sense due to the 5mm gap between the metal anchorage, and the cap when in its final position, which is the same length as the tang. Obviously, It's not something that I would do on a regular basis - probably once every 35 years or so LoL!!!
I kinda like the black handle, but as a last resort, I may have to go for brass.
The only place that seems to sell suitable replacement grill cloth is here:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Marshall-Black-Weave-Grill-Cloth-81x45cm/391476051268?hash=item5b25ca7d44:g:kB4AAOxy14VRK8Bd
Do you know of any other supplier?
But really, I would leave it alone unless it's torn. It's harder than it looks to do a good job of replacing it, and time-consuming. The faded colour is normal for these amps and for most people is much more desirable.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
I'll probably do some damage to the cloth when I try to get the snapped off logo lugs out to replace that, so may as well go the whole 9 yards! I hear what you're saying about the desirability factor - at the moment they are dirt cheap to pick up - I wonder when that will change and people will realise that they are a cracking amp!!!
You can take the baffle out and wash the whole thing in the bath if you like .
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
He runs 'Solsound' and he's a top bloke.
He sells the handle parts and all other spares although he insists on your serial number from your amp before he'll supply a new badge for the front.
Top guy, brilliantly helpful and the replacement cloth he sent me was absolutley spot on, delivered in a tube package.
I cannot recommend him highly enough.
Here's the 1985 Lead 12 I got from @impmann last year and restored using Sol's parts and help.
Last seen with @photek ...
https://i.imgur.com/uN38sea.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/HAB3tFM.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/KvYwQro.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/hs9Tdmf.jpg
My Master Lead is not going to look anywhere as good as that, as it has a split in the tolex near the handle. I'm wondering if I heated it up with a hairdryer before gluing to soften the material, whether I could get close to an invisible repair.
I've got a Reverb 12 too which not surprisingly is the Lead 12, but with a reverb. I always hankered after reverb on my original 12, but now I've got it, I find it's a bit too splashy. It's only got tiny springs, so I shouldn't really expect too much.
The answers to your questions are.
No, I didn't replace the corners as they were intact and in very good condition. The rivets were rusted to hell so I masked off around them (Mask over them then cut around them using a sharp craft knife), Scraped the worst off with a Stanley blade, rubbed them with various grades of wet n dry and then polished them. Ballache of a job but it came out nice.
The vinyl Tolex cleans up day 1 brand new if you use leather cleaning/restoring cream. It gets into the elephant grain and really brings it up like factory new. Leave it to dry for a satin finish or buff it for a slight sheen to it.
If I had to do it again, I would but I wouldn't do it myself again.
I had help from @Bridgehouse with mine, in fact, he mostly did it with me helping where I could because he's done it before and even then it wasn't dead easy.