Looking for help identifying / valuing some gear please

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close2uclose2u Frets: 997
edited August 2018 in Guitar
I recognise some of these in the general sense, but in many cases am unsure of specific models/variants (and their current potential market values).


I'm asking on behalf of someone else who has inherited them and knows nothing.



An acoustic labelled 'BM Mammoth'
https://i.imgur.com/G98xYvR.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/YurU5bd.jpg

A Tanglewood Electro-acoustic
https://i.imgur.com/M2ezmAj.jpg


A Richwood 
https://i.imgur.com/3arFfDQ.jpg


A Richwood 
RE-175
https://i.imgur.com/JcF2eGb.jpg


An Ibanez (Artcore AF model?)
https://i.imgur.com/SlxIQwF.jpg


An Epiphone (maybe a Swingster?_
https://i.imgur.com/qxZmmDc.jpg


An Epiphone Casino (are there variants to be aware of?)
https://i.imgur.com/iz2uSEp.jpg


A Gretsch
https://i.imgur.com/Xwy72c3.jpg


A T-style ( is that a cheap thing from a charity shop? Or boutique wow?)
https://i.imgur.com/KTlmPp0.jpg


A Fender HotRod Deluxe (are there different variants?)
https://i.imgur.com/Qdo7bcY.jpg


A Marshall Valvestate 50 (are there different variants?)
https://i.imgur.com/5D51u7F.jpg


A Squier Silver Series MIJ  serial K032347
https://i.imgur.com/4sbMS6T.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/K1Ba5KI.jpg

A Fender Strat
https://i.imgur.com/4J8x4rL.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/zTb9fst.jpg
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Comments

  • close2uclose2u Frets: 997
    Sorry - wrong imgur links copy / pasted to show here ... they should take you to the pics though ... I'll fix in the morning.
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  • close2uclose2u Frets: 997
    All photos now properly pasted and viewable. :)
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 72500
    Just my opinions of course, but based on what I see in the shop I work for...


    BM Mammoth - characterful old 1970s plywood acoustic. If it plays well and has no structural issues - £150

    Tanglewood - functional modern electro-acoustic - £150

    Richwoods and Ibanez Artcore - cheap archtops - £150 each

    Epiphone ES-175 Premium (not Swingster) - better-quality archtop - £400

    Epiphone Casino - older version with the less vintage-correct 17th-fret neck joint - £300

    Gretsch Electromatic 5120 - older version with the wrong-size pickups - £300

    Ryder Tele - cheap not boutique! - £100

    Fender Hotrod Deluxe - there are four versions, but all very similar. II is the most common - £350

    Marshall AVT50 - average-sounding and known to be unreliable - £100

    Squier Silver Series Strat - quite nice, but not as much as a JV - £250

    Fender USA Standard Strat (1997) - 'blockboard body' era, so not worth quite as much as an older or newer one - £500


    Give or take £50 on most of them probably, and don't take it as absolute gospel!

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

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  • close2uclose2u Frets: 997
    Thanks @ICBM ;

    I have asked for some more specific pics of serial / model numbers where there are none (inside the acoustic / archtops etc).
    I have also asked if they come with hard cases etc.


    Any other opinions more than welcome.

    :)
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  • close2uclose2u Frets: 997
    Some headstock shots with a bit of extra info in case it makes any difference to @ICBM and his summaries

    the Epiphones …
    https://i.imgur.com/PcMUFVe.jpg

    https://i.imgur.com/JATJhAQ.jpg


    The blonde Richwood back and front
    https://i.imgur.com/7KjhGZM.jpg
    https://i.imgur.com/YCPYZ2g.jpg

    the other Richwood (I think)
    https://i.imgur.com/Xo6Fg7w.jpg


    the Gretsch
    https://i.imgur.com/Vw0LE81.jpg

    the BM Mammoth turns out to be MIJ
    https://i.imgur.com/n69g9hw.jpg
    The 'Sue Ryder charity shop tele'
    https://i.imgur.com/wU3xaDV.jpg

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  • Jimbro66Jimbro66 Frets: 2430
    The Tanglewood should have the model name and number on the label inside the sound hole. It looks like possibly one of the Sundance Pro range? Maybe a TW55?
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  • close2uclose2u Frets: 997
    Jimbro66 said:
    The Tanglewood should have the model name and number on the label inside the sound hole. It looks like possibly one of the Sundance Pro range? Maybe a TW55?

    Thanks Jim - yes … I have asked for a pic of that … and of any labels inside the f-holes of the archtops
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  • NiteflyNitefly Frets: 4924

    This site: http://www.guitardaterproject.org/epiphone.aspx ; will tell you about the Epiphone - where and when built.

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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 72500
    close2u said:

    the BM Mammoth turns out to be MIJ
    Yes, but from an era when that was more associated with cheap and a bit ropey than high quality :).

    Nonetheless, if you offered me the pick of any of these guitars, that's the one I would choose. It's the most interesting and characterful, even if not the best quality,

    Second choice would be the Epiphone Casino, I also prefer the 'less vintage correct' neck joint over the 'correct' one.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

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  • impmannimpmann Frets: 12668
    edited June 2018
    Regarding the Squier Silver Series - I'd put that at closer to £275-300. Whilst the Sunburst/Maple combo is probably the most common, its in nice condition for its year and they are beginning to become sought after.

    And the USA Strat - I think you'd be closer to £650-700 for that, based on sales on eBay. Whilst much is made of the 'blockboard' bollocks by some, its not true of all guitars made in that era and some are very fine instruments..
    Never Ever Bloody Anything Ever.

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  • close2uclose2u Frets: 997

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  • GassageGassage Frets: 30931
    @HarrySeven will offer you £18.45 + a genuine Corgi Model of a Mini-Moke for the lot

    *An Official Foo-Approved guitarist since Sept 2023.

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  • close2uclose2u Frets: 997
    edited June 2018
    @Nitefly Thanks for the link … just waiting on some of the Epi serials

    @ICBM Interesting take on the 'quirky' being desirable and I need to know more about that 'period correct' detail on the Epiphone … hollows / archtops / jazzers etc are not in my area of knowledge at all … save for a little knowledge about semi-hollow staples like 335 etc.


    @impmann Point noted on the Squier and the Fender … 


    Another comment I have no knowledge of is the 'blockboard' … 
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  • impmannimpmann Frets: 12668
    edited June 2018
    close2u said:


    Another comment I have no knowledge of is the 'blockboard' … 
    Some US Fender guitar bodies of this period were constructed using multiple pieces of wood, sometimes sandwiched between a 'veneer' so that the the faces of the guitar could be a translucent or sunburst finish.

    Much is made of whether or not this makes any difference to the sound - but tbh, I doubt many folks could hear the difference, in reality (even if they like to kid themselves they can).


    Never Ever Bloody Anything Ever.

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  • NiteflyNitefly Frets: 4924

     :)  turns out they do Ibanez too: http://www.guitardaterproject.org/ibanez.aspx
     
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 72500
    close2u said:

    @ICBM Interesting take on the 'quirky' being desirable and I need to know more about that 'period correct' detail on the Epiphone …
    Original Epiphone Casinos have the neck joint at the 16th fret - compared to the 19th on a Gibson 335 - which makes top-end access quite difficult. This series of Epiphones was done with it at the 17th - I assume to slightly offset that problem slightly, while keeping the general proportions the same. The current series have reverted to the vintage-correct 16th-fret joint.

    This is the 'correct' version, you can see that the neck is set noticeably deeper into the body. Look at the gap between the pickguard and the cutaway for one of the most obvious clues.

    http://images.epiphone.com.s3.amazonaws.com/Products/Archtop/Casino/Gallery/POP_Casino-NA.jpg

    impmann said:
    close2u said:

    Another comment I have no knowledge of is the 'blockboard' … 
    Some US Fender guitar bodies of this period were constructed using multiple pieces of wood, sometimes sandwiched between a 'veneer' so that the the faces of the guitar could be a translucent or sunburst finish.
    As far as I know all the US Standard bodies other than the Ash special editions were, regardless of finish. It's only really obvious on the sunburst Strats and basses though, because the dark part of the burst follows the edge of the belly contour on the back instead of the edge of the body, to hide the join. On the front, the veneer was curved to fit the body before finishing so there is no visible join. (And obviously on the Teles there is no contouring.)

    I agree that there's probably little or no tone difference, but it does make this era of US Stds (roughly 1994-2000) less desirable.

    All these things are probably in the realms of Shut Up And Play Yer Guitar I know ;), but they do affect the values.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

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  • impmannimpmann Frets: 12668
    ICBM said:
    impmann said:
    close2u said:

    Another comment I have no knowledge of is the 'blockboard' … 
    Some US Fender guitar bodies of this period were constructed using multiple pieces of wood, sometimes sandwiched between a 'veneer' so that the the faces of the guitar could be a translucent or sunburst finish.
    As far as I know all the US Standard bodies other than the Ash special editions were, regardless of finish. It's only really obvious on the sunburst Strats and basses though, because the dark part of the burst follows the edge of the belly contour on the back instead of the edge of the body, to hide the join. On the front, the veneer was curved to fit the body before finishing so there is no visible join. (And obviously on the Teles there is no contouring.)

    I agree that there's probably little or no tone difference, but it does make this era of US Stds (roughly 1994-2000) less desirable.

    All these things are probably in the realms of Shut Up And Play Yer Guitar I know ;), but they do affect the values.
    Having stripped a few mid 90s Alder bodied Strats not all are... despite what you may  read online.
    I did 8 Strats for a particular band back in the day... yes, really... as they wanted natural finish covered in stickers with single humbuckers in couple of odd tunings. A couple were pretty vile under the thick paint but the rest were no worse than a 'normal' Strat.

    But hey, as with everything... YMMV.



    Never Ever Bloody Anything Ever.

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  • close2uclose2u Frets: 997
    Well these are all up for sale … so I guess I will pop some info over in classifieds soon … they're not mine but I may soon be visiting to take some pics of the extra details not yet sent me … they're in Stockton on Tees
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  • musicman100musicman100 Frets: 1740
    With respect I would just sick them on ebay and they'll make wjat they make. There's nothing there thats special or tasty. 
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