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I don't know what the answer will result in recommendations for, it's just there's 2 different ways to address shorter fingers I assume?
http://www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/138202/new-slim-neck-acoustic-advice-please#latest
Neck profile (this is the cross sectional shape of the neck, commonly referred to as D/C/V/U depending on the shape, you can think of it in terms of the depth of the neck)
Nut width (this is the width of the fretboard at the nut. Usually on acoustics it is 1 11/16" or 1 3/4". Some people find either more comfy than the other. This is something to test for yourself)
Neck width (this would be the width across the neck - effectively the fretting surface, This could be wider or slimmer depending on personal preference. As such a neck could be described as both narrow in width but with a deep profile etc)
Scale Length (This is the distance between the bridge and the nut, usually either 25.5" or 24.75". The shorter the scale the closer the frets are to each other, and thus the easier long stretches become. Note that with larger hands this can make fretting more difficult)
String Gauge (This is usually higher for acoustics than electrics. A lighter gauge usually means that they are easier on your hands when fretting - less pressure required to fret a note)
Setup/Action etc (Guitars can be adjusted to play better, one effect of which might be reducing the distance between the string and frets, meaning again that less effort is required to fret a note).
That's probably enough to get you started!:)
terada- great guide ta
I am used to classical guitars (52mm = 2 inch nut), most acoustics are 1.75 inch at the nut, some are 1 and 11/16 inches, and a small number are 1 and 7/8 inches, which I quite like for some styles.
http://www.jazzyacousticguitar.com/neck-width/
as people have said, a shorter scale would be easier. I have some very long scale guitars, and although I like them, I find it is impossible to play some pieces on them, because the frets are so far apart
Try to find a used guitar that has already been professionally set up, it will be much easier to play
Usually, the problem is that :
- a new guitar has the slots in the nut not cut deep enough (it's a skilled job to get it right, and overdoing it makes the guitar unplayable, so many factories err on the side of caution and leave it so that the string is too high)
- the saddle at the bridge is too high, for the same reason
It's about £15 tor £30 to get this sorted I think