Peavey 6505 Valve Question...

Slimbert

I have a 60w 2x12 Peavey 6505 combo.

I absolutely love the amp but I'm looking for any tips to warm up the sound a little. With the standard valves the amp is very bright and I prefer warmer chunky tones.

I've read that changing the V1 valve can make quite a difference. I'm certainly not looking to change the whole set of valves.

In case it's important everything is stock and basically brand new. I run the amp with a 2x12 extension cab from the extension output on the rear.

I'm fairly new to valves having used solid state amps exclusively for over 20 years so please go easy on me!

Any advice will be genuinely appreciated.

ValveTubeGuitarAmps

the output valves do have a major influence on the sound of the amp.  V1 does have the most influence.  If I remember correctly the amp uses Sovtek valves which are already pretty good. Perhaps you could check inside and see what is fitted. My choice would have been Tung Sol 6L6GC-STR and a Tung Sol 12AX7 in V1.  The biggest influence in the amp is the tone stack. 

Slimbert

ValveTubeGuitarAmps said:

the output valves do have a major influence on the sound of the amp.  V1 does have the most influence.  If I remember correctly the amp uses Sovtek valves which are already pretty good. Perhaps you could check inside and see what is fitted. My choice would have been Tung Sol 6L6GC-STR and a Tung Sol 12AX7 in V1.  The biggest influence in the amp is the tone stack. 

Forgive my ignorance but how would I buy a single valve for V1 that would match the rest of the preamp valves? Or does it not matter? Would I need to set the bias etc? I really do know bugger all about valves!

JMP220478

bright could be all of your signal chain ?

what guitar(s)  ?  pickups ? fx ?  amp / tone settings / speakers ? 


Valves are only one potential influence - have you got a eq pedal to hand ?  chunkier / could be low mids ? 

if you've a target tone in mind ?

Slimbert

JMP220478 said:

bright could be all of your signal chain ?

what guitar(s)  ?  pickups ? fx ?  amp / tone settings / speakers ? 


Valves are only one potential influence - have you got a eq pedal to hand ?  chunkier / could be low mids ? 

if you've a target tone in mind ?

Not offence intended but I think you might be over complicating things a little.

I just want to know, through switching a valve or two, how to warm up the top end a bit.

I have a ton of high end pedals and can get exactly what I want when I go through my board but sometimes I plug straight in to the front of the amp. I like plenty of top end just not the harsh top end I'm getting at most volumes.

If it's a case of spending £20 on a JJ or Tung Sol then I'll give it a whirl but I don't want to be re-valving the whole thing as 80%+ of the time I play through my board and it's all good.

I won't list my whole rig as it's complicated and unusual but I'll add that I go in to the "Low" input, only use the first/"clean" channel, and never use either the "Crunch" or "Bright" switches.

I usually play very very loud.

DJH83004

The only 6505 combo I have had in the workshop was the 1 x 12, which had V1 preamp, V2 as PI and 2 x 6L6GCs so I trust yours is the same, if not please ignore my comments. The first thing to do is establish which valve is in the V1 position, I suspect it will be a Chinese 12AX7 or 12AX7B, which are Shuguang valves, that a lot of manufacturers fit as OEM valves.
I have a lot of customers who prefer a warmer sound to the front end of their amps and are now going for JJ ECC83 gold pins, at first I thought this was just a typical JJ ECC83 with a bit of gold plating and better quality control, but I have to say they do do sound a lot warmer than the standard ones (I know IC is not a fan, but they are worth a try). 
So that would be my first recommendation, or a Tung-Sol or even a Gold Lion, which the Hi-Fi boys love as they provide a very rich balanced sound.
At the end of the day, it is one valve so not the end of the world if you are not a happy bunny.  
   

Slimbert

DJH83004 said:

The only 6505 combo I have had in the workshop was the 1 x 12, which had V1 preamp, V2 as PI and 2 x 6L6GCs so I trust yours is the same, if not please ignore my comments. The first thing to do is establish which valve is in the V1 position, I suspect it will be a Chinese 12AX7 or 12AX7B, which are Shuguang valves, that a lot of manufacturers fit as OEM valves.
I have a lot of customers who prefer a warmer sound to the front end of their amps and are now going for JJ ECC83 gold pins, at first I thought this was just a typical JJ ECC83 with a bit of gold plating and better quality control, but I have to say they do do sound a lot warmer than the standard ones (I know IC is not a fan, but they are worth a try). 
So that would be my first recommendation, or a Tung-Sol or even a Gold Lion, which the Hi-Fi boys love as they provide a very rich balanced sound.
At the end of the day, it is one valve so not the end of the world if you are not a happy bunny.  
   

If it makes any difference, mine is the American made 2x12 and not the Chinese made 1x12. The two amps do have some differences so the valves may well be different.

DJH83004

Slimbert said:

DJH83004 said:

The only 6505 combo I have had in the workshop was the 1 x 12, which had V1 preamp, V2 as PI and 2 x 6L6GCs so I trust yours is the same, if not please ignore my comments. The first thing to do is establish which valve is in the V1 position, I suspect it will be a Chinese 12AX7 or 12AX7B, which are Shuguang valves, that a lot of manufacturers fit as OEM valves.
I have a lot of customers who prefer a warmer sound to the front end of their amps and are now going for JJ ECC83 gold pins, at first I thought this was just a typical JJ ECC83 with a bit of gold plating and better quality control, but I have to say they do do sound a lot warmer than the standard ones (I know IC is not a fan, but they are worth a try). 
So that would be my first recommendation, or a Tung-Sol or even a Gold Lion, which the Hi-Fi boys love as they provide a very rich balanced sound.
At the end of the day, it is one valve so not the end of the world if you are not a happy bunny.  
   

If it makes any difference, mine is the American made 2x12 and not the Chinese made 1x12. The two amps do have some differences so the valves may well be different.

Good point, in which case you need to take out the V1 preamp valve and identify what it actually is, then we can make suggestions on what you could try as a replacement.

Slimbert

Just had a look...

As I'm looking at the amp from the back, there's 5 preamp valves on the right and 2 power valves to the left of them so 7 valves in total.

From right to left they are JJ, JJ, JJ, EHX, EHX, Ruby 6L6, Ruby 6L6.

I guess that means V1 is a JJ?

DJH83004

yes, V1 is a JJ which is a bit of a surprise and suggests that the pre-amp valves have been changed at some point, as I would have thought originally they were Rubys (but actually Chinese). 

ICBM

Try replacing the two EHs in V4 and V5 with JJs. It's true, I don't like JJ 12AX7s - because to my ears they are dark and a bit muddy... but this may be exactly what you want in an amp which sounds too bright. EHs are some of the brightest, although less so than Tung-Sols. Even in later positions in an amp they will make a difference, it's not all about V1 (contrary to popular wisdom).

The Sovtek 12AX7WB (not WA) is the other best choice for a dark-sounding preamp valve, if anything slightly thicker-sounding than the JJ.

Fiftyshadesofjay

I’d change the speakers to Greenbacks personally. Warms the tone up no end and they work fantastically with these amps.

Slimbert

Thanks everyone!

The extension cab adds a lot of warmth due to the type of cab it is and the speakers it's loaded with.

Changing the internal/standard speakers is a good shout though. I know the originals aren't the best.