S-1 Switch Wiring

Alright folks, I've got a mental plan, but not sure if it can be done, let alone with an S-1 Switch.

I want to wire an S-1 switch into my strat or tele, but I want the switch to act a bit like a blower switch.  But instead of the bridge pickup up full, I want the neck pickup with the tone rolled off (to play nicely with an octave fuzz)

I've literally no idea how to even begin this, so any and all advice gratefully received.
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Comments

  • ICBMICBM Frets: 72564
    Yes, it can be done with an S-1 because it’s a 4PDT switch, and you only need three poles for this - two for the conventional blower circuit, and one to engage the tone control, which would be best done with a separate cap.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

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  • Gulliver said:
    S-1 switch into my strat or tele
    Be aware that the Stratocaster and Telecaster versions of the S-1 switch are not conveniently interchangeable. The pots have different shafts. The Strat version is splined to grip a plastic control knob. The Tele version is smooth to accept a metal knob, fastened by a grub screw. (In both formats, the central switching portion of the control knob is fastened separately by a push-in plunger.)

    Gulliver said:
    a blower switch. ... neck pickup with the tone rolled off
    The sound that you are describing is very nearly the third selector switch option on the 1953-1967 Telecaster circuit. (Obviously, the capacitor value you use will be different.) It might prove easier to integrate this option into a narrow format Superswitch.

    In my opinion, on a regular Telecaster, with practice, it should be possible to arrive at Neck PU + Tone pot rolled off in next to no time. (Just as if you were about to perform Greg Koch tone pot wah-wah stunts.)
    You say, atom bomb. I say, tin of corned beef.
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  • Gulliver said:
    S-1 switch into my strat or tele
    Be aware that the Stratocaster and Telecaster versions of the S-1 switch are not conveniently interchangeable. The pots have different shafts. The Strat version is splined to grip a plastic control knob. The Tele version is smooth to accept a metal knob, fastened by a grub screw. (In both formats, the central switching portion of the control knob is fastened separately by a push-in plunger.)

    Gulliver said:
    a blower switch. ... neck pickup with the tone rolled off
    The sound that you are describing is very nearly the third selector switch option on the 1953-1967 Telecaster circuit. (Obviously, the capacitor value you use will be different.) It might prove easier to integrate this option into a narrow format Superswitch.

    In my opinion, on a regular Telecaster, with practice, it should be possible to arrive at Neck PU + Tone pot rolled off in next to no time. (Just as if you were about to perform Greg Koch tone pot wah-wah stunts.)

    1) Haven't decided which guitar to mod yet, hence the indecision about which to buy, but thanks for the heads up!

    2) I've tried practicing the transition, but I also fancied a quirky mod!
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 72564
    edited September 2018
    I understand exactly why you would want it - I used the 'rhythm' circuit on my Fender Jaguar for the same thing with a fuzz pedal - actually the exact opposite of 'rhythm', but whatever . It means you can switch from your standard sound to your fuzz sound at one go without having to fiddle with either of them - particularly as the Fuzz Factory I was using was very sensitive to the control settings.

    Basically, the S1 has four switches on it, you only need to use three of them.

    Switch 1 - neck pickup to either switch or output
    Switch 2 - output to either volume pot or neck pickup
    Switch 3 - connects tone cap for rolled-down sound

    Since fuzz pedals can be sensitive to the volume pot value as well, it would probably be best to have a resistor in parallel with the cap to simulate a pot up full.

    The connections to the four switches on the S1 aren't arranged quite logically - two of them go one way and two the other, rather than all clockwise/anticlockwise - but it's easy to work it out with a multimeter.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

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  • Here's the S1 connections


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