Saddles, repair or replace?

robgilmo

https://i.imgur.com/LI481IR.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/vkp4i4G.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/Hx3OdG9.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/sepuzW1.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/VflPPTM.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/9NY8aDl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/O8dPfpF.jpg

What say we all? Replace?

https://i.imgur.com/Ze39pZf.jpg

robgilmo

https://i.imgur.com/MSt5U1G.jpg

And replace with what? Any recommendations? This isnt a Fender by the way, so I dont know what will fit and what wont.

FelineGuitars

I'd say get the Highwood bent metal ones that you can't feel the grub screw on 

We keep them in stock and tend to keep 3 separate widths too 10.5, 10.8mm and 11.2mm

ICBM

Depends if you want to keep the original look and tone - those alloy saddles do sound different from steel ones. Most people would say worse, but if you like the tone of the guitar as it is now, don't change them.

Condition-wise I have seen worse... although you may have trouble adjusting some of the height screws. If so and you want to keep them, try taking them off and soaking them in WD-40.

If you do want to change them, those ones FelineGuitars has look very nice - the ones you need will be either 10.5 or 10.8mm, I can't remember which - measure across all six and divide by 6, that will be more accurate than trying to tell from just one. It's otherwise often quite hard to find the steel ones in the narrow Japanese sizes.

Funkfingers

ICBM said:

Depends if you want to keep the original look and tone - those alloy saddles do sound different from steel ones. Most people would say worse, but if you like the tone of the guitar as it is now, don't change them.

This is why my elderly Charvel Model 1 / 3 bitsa still has its original P.O.S. JT-6 vibrato.

ICBM said:

If you do want to change them ... It's ... often quite hard to find the steel ones in the narrow Japanese sizes.

GraphTech offer their String Saver saddles in the narrower Metric width and in various materials. 

On the other hand, I question the wisdom of changing only the saddles. If the stock saddles are cast pot metal, how naff is the sustain block? The fulcrum pivot screws have countersunk heads and the baseplate has been countersunk downwards. It might be quicker, simpler and cheaper to replace the entire vibrato with a Wilkinson WVS.

Philly_Q

FelineGuitars said:

I'd say get the Highwood bent metal ones that you can't feel the grub screw on 

We keep them in stock and tend to keep 3 separate widths too 10.5, 10.8mm and 11.2mm

I'd say I totally agree. 

The ones you've got aren't terrible though, but I'm not sure what you can do to "repair" them other than loosening/replacing the grub screws.

streethawk

I've still got a few 10.8mm full trems here for £11 a piece. Saddles, block, arm the lot. 
Might be worth measuring your screw mount spacing.

http://www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/126776/fs-vintage-strat-trems-full-sized-blocks-for-new-builds-cheap#latest

robgilmo

Thanks guys, I'm not talking about the screws, they are fine, I'm talking about the big grooves where the string goes over the top.

ICBM

robgilmo said:

Thanks guys, I'm not talking about the screws, they are fine, I'm talking about the big grooves where the string goes over the top.

Don't worry about those, just make sure the string is seated correctly in whichever one puts it in the centre of the saddle.

The intonation needs adjusting too, unless you're using a wound G string .

Philly_Q

robgilmo said:

Thanks guys, I'm not talking about the screws, they are fine, I'm talking about the big grooves where the string goes over the top.

You could file them smooth, but that would also remove the chrome plating to reveal whatever unknown alloy they're made out of.  Might not be pretty.

robgilmo

Wont those grooves effects tuning stability? Intonation seems fine but I will check again, that saddle does sit right far back though.   
https://i.imgur.com/yPzmZuB.jpg

ICBM

They would only affect tuning stability if the strings had to move over the saddles when using the trem - which they don't on a Strat, and is precisely why Leo called it a 'Synchronized Tremolo' because the saddles move in sync with the strings.

(OK, they probably do a bit with extreme dive-bombing, but at that point the strings snagging in the nut grooves or jumping out of them is a much more serious issue!)

robgilmo

Ah Ok, it might be that the nut needs a bit of lube then, its a bit random as to which strings return to tune when using the trem, I dont dive bomb it, just a little wiggle, in fact I dont really use it at all but it would be nice to know I could.

ICBM

It is almost always the nut.

robgilmo

Looking at the Hi Res photos of the nut it looks like it needs changing, it looks like the trem has caused the strings to eat into it. I normally do it anyway on old guitars.

https://i.imgur.com/5oYWr6X.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/OG5VhyV.jpg

ICBM

Depending on how high it is, there might be enough left to re-cut the grooves, but otherwise I'd probably just replace it. If original it's likely to be a fairly soft plastic which won't help with tuning stability either - bone is much better.

robgilmo

The E and B strings look fairly deep, and I dont quite know how the G string cut over to the side like that, easier to stick a new one on there. I dont have files so I usually just use Tusq nuts, not ideal but they do work.