Fender Super Reverb - now with pics

Kylef

You were right @ICBM just took the unit apart to find that the black wire at the input end had come away. Just going to replace the unit rather than try and fix it, I’ll keep as a spare. 

So anout the amp, it’s now done my last 3 gigs. Never have I had a chance to get it above 2.5 - not because of the size of venues, but because of how loud it is. It’s a fair monster, and due to the size and the 4x10’s, there’s a fair bit of air moved. Volume doesn’t bother me, I have around 4 overdrives for stacking on my pedalboard, so my drive comes from there. Having the headroom to really push the amp without clipping is something I need, I found the Princeton struggled with this. It’s why I went back to my Deluxe Reverb. That is, until this showed up for sale and I took the plunge. Really happy I did, it’s becoming my main workhorse. 

Heres a couple of pics from the last 3 gigs. 

https://instagram.com/p/BpwY-SnHRhK/
https://instagram.com/p/BpfCQ3DnEF4/
https://instagram.com/p/BpecjrVnLOj/

ICBM

Kylef said:

You were right @ICBM just took the unit apart to find that the black wire at the input end had come away. Just going to replace the unit rather than try and fix it, I’ll keep as a spare.

Fix the original - it will be better quality than anything you can buy now, both for sound and reliability. I prefer to add a small amount of hot-melt glue to hold the wires in place and stop them straining the solder connections.

If you must replace it, use a TAD/Ruby not an Accutronics - the modern Accutronics have a design fault which makes them very prone to failure.

Kylef

It's a reissue SR, so I assumed it would just have an accutronics?

ICBM

Kylef said:

It's a reissue SR, so I assumed it would just have an accutronics?

Ah... didn't realise it was a reissue. In that case, does it have plastic jumper blocks on the ends of the reverb transducers? If so, you can make the unit much more reliable by removing them, soldering the wires directly to the pins as close to the bobbin as possible and securing them with hot-melt glue as well.

If that's all too much hassle then a TAD/Ruby will do the job, although it will sound a little darker/smoother.

Kylef

It’s the black wire that’s the problem here. I can’t get it to sit back in tightly. Could probably solder it to the connection, then super glue the cable to plastic?

https://imgur.com/a/YbhReg9

ICBM

No, don’t try to get it back in - pull the plastic block off the pins, cut the blue wire as close to the block as possible, then solder both wires to their pins as close to the bobbin as you can. Stick the two wires to the bobbin with hot glue to remove the strain on the solder joints.

Then do the same to the other end. Now it will probably not break again...

The plastic blocks are the design fault - they’re heavy enough to vibrate and break the coil wires at the pins.

Kylef

Cheers @ICBM