Bugger!!..broke my Orange CR60C...well I didn't, but advice required.

cbilly22

Had a mishap over the weekend with my trusty CR60C. Basically the input jack got broken as the jack was ripped out when the amp got knocked over (one of those nights!). In the process it must have twisted the board as it has disconnected/broken the lugs of the two pots closest to it. Sooooooo, I need to replace the input jack and two pots, one a 250k and one a 500k. I think I'll be ok to actually carry out the repair as the board pretty easily removed but where is the best place to get the required parts or does anyone have stock. Pics attached.

https://i.imgur.com/iwku5GV.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/iMqbo6c.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/dgZM1xX.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/FEVbq9x.jpg

cbilly22

On a positive note, I finished the gig with my Mooer Red Truck direct into the PA and, bugger me, if it didn't do a cracking job.

ecc83

Have you any experience in getting components off double sided print Bill?  If not a valuable amp is not really the place to learn!

But, if you want to have a go you will need a good solder iron of 50W capacity and cut the pins out from under the jack etc. Don't try to get things out intact. Then remove the bits gently with tweezers (not pliers, you can pull too hard and lift print) Clean up with solder wick, I prefer it to BANG! suckers.

The bits look pretty standard to me IC or somebody else will tell you a source.

Dave.

cbilly22

ecc83 said:

Have you any experience in getting components off double sided print Bill?  If not a valuable amp is not really the place to learn!

But, if you want to have a go you will need a good solder iron of 50W capacity and cut the pins out from under the jack etc. Don't try to get things out intact. Then remove the bits gently with tweezers (not pliers, you can pull too hard and lift print) Clean up with solder wick, I prefer it to BANG! suckers.

The bits look pretty standard to me IC or somebody else will tell you a source.

Dave.

Hi Dave, cheers for the reply. Funnily enough I was about to snip the pins before I stopped to take the pics and put the job on the back burner as I didn't want to rush it yesterday. I have changed a few bits on printed board over the years so happy to tackle it.If I can't find the time to get it done over the next couple of weeks I may well farm the job out to be fair.

Figured the pots etc were pretty standard but wanted to be sure that they weren't something odd that only Orange use. 

Thanks again. Annoyingly I used to have a massive Maplins just round the corner from work but sadly no more.

ICBM

They will be something from Rapid like this - https://www.rapidonline.com/Taiwan-Alpha-RV16AF-100K-LOG-16mm-Metal-Case-PCB-Potentiometer-65-0830

Check what the shaft type is - plain/grub screw or split/splined - but there should be something in the range. Alpha are decent quality.

Be careful removing the old parts, as Dave said. I also find it easiest to simply destroy the old one leaving only the metal pins - heavy wirecutters are usually the best way - then unsolder each pin in turn just by heating the solder and pulling it out with pliers, then blow through the hole to clear it.

If you want to make a really good job of it and prevent this ever happening again, get a solder-loop jack rather than a PCB-pin one, and fit it upside down with flying leads to the corresponding pads on the board - that way the force can't be transferred to the board even if the jack breaks. You may only need a 2-contact one rather than 3, unless the middle one is used for some sort of switching - have a look and see if the pads on the board go anywhere other than both to ground. Fiddly the first time, but I tend to do this on rehearsal-room amps as it makes re-repair much easier!

I also always like to wrap the cable through the handle of my amp with one turn around it, which should stop it getting pulled at all.

cbilly22

ICBM said:

They will be something from Rapid like this - https://www.rapidonline.com/Taiwan-Alpha-RV16AF-100K-LOG-16mm-Metal-Case-PCB-Potentiometer-65-0830

Check what the shaft type is - plain/grub screw or split/splined - but there should be something in the range. Alpha are decent quality.

Be careful removing the old parts, as Dave said. I also find it easiest to simply destroy the old one leaving only the metal pins - heavy wirecutters are usually the best way - then unsolder each pin in turn just by heating the solder and pulling it out with pliers, then blow through the hole to clear it.

If you want to make a really good job of it and prevent this ever happening again, get a solder-loop jack rather than a PCB-pin one, and fit it upside down with flying leads to the corresponding pads on the board - that way the force can't be transferred to the board even if the jack breaks. You may only need a 2-contact one rather than 3, unless the middle one is used for some sort of switching - have a look and see if the pads on the board go anywhere other than both to ground. Fiddly the first time, but I tend to do this on rehearsal-room amps as it makes re-repair much easier!

I also always like to wrap the cable through the handle of my amp with one turn around it, which should stop it getting pulled at all.

Cheers IC, all excellent advice as always. Sadly I don't think even a wrapped cable would have saved it. The amp and punter actually went over in a heap...he wasn't even drunk as it turned out, just a bit clumsy. Great tip on a safer jack replacement too.

ICBM

cbilly22 said:

Great tip on a safer jack replacement too.

I forgot to add - make sure the flying leads 'cross over' - the contacts are the opposite way round because the jack will be upside down .

When I do this for rehearsal-room amps I leave a good inch or so more wire than it really needs, and usually glue-gun the wires to the board where they come through, before attaching them to the jack - that really makes it bombproof and if the jack ever does get broken again, it's very easy to just replace it without any need to take the board out.

All amps should be made like that really, but it's understandable that they don't want the labour cost of doing it. Second best is to mount the jack on a small separate PCB, which quite a lot do.

cbilly22

ICBM said:

cbilly22 said:

Great tip on a safer jack replacement too.

I forgot to add - make sure the flying leads 'cross over' - the contacts are the opposite way round because the jack will be upside down .

When I do this for rehearsal-room amps I leave a good inch or so more wire than it really needs, and usually glue-gun the wires to the board where they come through, before attaching them to the jack - that really makes it bombproof and if the jack ever does get broken again, it's very easy to just replace it without any need to take the board out.

All amps should be made like that really, but it's understandable that they don't want the labour cost of doing it. Second best is to mount the jack on a small separate PCB, which quite a lot do.

Haha, thanks for that, because that is exactly the sort of thing that would trip me up, the actual work I'm happy I'll be able to do. Any problems I've encountered with guitars, pedals etc is usually down to a doh! moment.

I was quite surprised it wasn't on a separate board, which is daft because I opened one up a couple of years ago to send you gut shots so should have known what to expect. I do like the idea of the jack being off the board in future. I shall keep you posted and if I can't get round to it (will be laid up for a fortnight shortly due to leg op) I may well just package it up and send it your way

cbilly22

Fixed it. Thanks for all the tips, they came in handy in every case.

I actually went with a straight jack replacement instead of ICs recommended mod but still quietly happy with myself as is was a tad fiddly and my respect for those that do this daily and probably much quicker, has increased greatly. I also enjoyed doing it funnily enough.

Once again, thanks to Dave and IC for their help.