Wait for a Marshall sv20 or buy a s/h1959hw with attenuator??

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riffpowersriffpowers Frets: 344
i’ve been holding out to try the new Marshall studio vintage and classic heads , but looks like it might be some time before I get my hands on one. .

meanwhile someone not too far from me is Selling an immaculate Marshall 1959HW and Weber mass 200. 
I might go over and try it anyway, but I wondered if it might be worth getting this instead of waiting for the Marshall sv20 .

i was trying to downsize , but I’m super tempted.
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Comments

  • TTBZTTBZ Frets: 2898
    edited March 2019
    Depends what you're after but I actually prefer the 20w. Feels like it has more gain maybe due to the fact you actually get it going and I prefer the more compressed feel. The 1959 is actually quite a clean amp I think, compared to others anyway. I'd rather just carry around the 20w head than a big plexi plus attenuator.

    The 1987x is better than both of them though
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 72364
    If you can't wait, just buy a 1987x or a JTM45.

    The 1959 does sound great - but it's huge, heavy, fairly expensive to re-valve, and the Weber is not really the ideal attenuator for it in my opinion.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

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  • kossofffankossofffan Frets: 549
    My 1959HW has a Granger master volume kit installed and a 3 way bright cap switch (original/without/220mfd) on the rear panel. It runs into a 4x12 and is my only amp, only used at home daily!

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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 72364
    My 1959HW has a Granger master volume kit installed and a 3 way bright cap switch (original/without/220mfd) on the rear panel. It runs into a 4x12 and is my only amp, only used at home daily!
    I hope that's 220pF! 220mF (even if you actually mean uF, which is a thousand times smaller) would effectively bypass the volume control completely at all frequencies :).

    500pF is my favourite value, but I also like 100pF as was used in the 'Organ' version (model 1989 50W, don't think they ever did a 100W one), so I'm sure 220 will work well. Stock is 5000pF.

    220mF is 220,000,000pF ;).

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

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  • kossofffankossofffan Frets: 549
    Yes it is, wasn't sure how to write it. lol
    I thought it's 4700pF stock. I sure mine is
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 72364

    I thought it's 4700pF stock. I sure mine is
    Yes, that's the same thing effectively - 47 is the standard tolerance-centre number instead of 50, used on modern components. Originals used one actually marked as 5000pF, I think it changed around 1980 but it might have been a bit earlier.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

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  • kossofffankossofffan Frets: 549
    Thanks, everyday’s a school day, for me at least!
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  • NerineNerine Frets: 2162
    The used 1959 HW. 

    Not even a decision to make in my view. 
    Plus it's already dumped all of its money, so you can sell on later with very little risk of losing out. 
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