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  • GagarynGagaryn Frets: 1553
    equalsql said:

    You knocked that DIM bulb tester up quick.. you must be keen ;) I think the Weber kit is a good choice cos having the full BOM makes it much less daunting for a first build and you don't get held up by not having the correct small parts...like the correct size nuts for mounting the transformers etc.

    It cracks me up that if you remove the transformers from the BOM when ordering it only costs you $30 less.. :D

    I must admit that this thread is starting to make me feel 'itchy' for another build myself, perhaps for 6G15 Reverb Tank.

    +1 for @MtB and his wiring advice. Make a copy of the circuit diagram and highlight the connections as you wire them. Adopt a "measure twice, cut once" approach for the build.  

    Let us know when you're kit arrives.... you should document your build on here, if you a brave enough, cos there's lots of good folks on here to help...and keep you safe :) 

    The DIM bulb tester even works! Yip, I'm getting quite excited. :-) I agree about the price reductions for removing parts which is why I didn't bother - I will build everything using the supplied parts I think and take advice on what would be worth upgrading once I have everything working. I will be methodical in my build and mark off what's been done as you say - I'll be taking my time as this is new to me. I think the big head scratcher for me will be working out the best order to do things and routing of wires. 5f2a kits are thinner on the ground than f51 kits so I have been trying to find a step by step guide for one of those that I can adapt - not found anything yet, Tube Depot has instructions but for a PCB kit.

    I'll document the build in Making and Modding, but think it will be about a month before it gets here. Funnily enough, I'm already planning my next build (presuming I manage the first) and reckon it will be a 6G15 too. Then a 5E3. :-)

    @ICBM and @jpfamps and anyone else who knows - I may start looking for a 5Y3GT so I can try it once everything is working any recommendation on what make to look for, or avoid? 
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 72369
    jpfamps said:

    Conventional wisdom is that class A amps draw constant current from their power supplies; this true for a genuine push-pull class A amp.

    However for a single ended amp the current draw is not constant even if the amp biased for optimally for class A operation, which is very rarely for a guitar amp (single ended or push pull).

    In ideal class A biasing at maximum power the signal current varys from zero to twice the idle current, so the impedance of the power supply will have an effect on the signal.

    As ICBM points out most single ended guitar amps are not biased for optimal class A operation, so the signal will vary by an even greater extent over the signal cycle.
    That's why I was careful to say *average* current :). Theoretically the filter caps should cope with the alternating current within each waveform cycle. Although that is theoretically...

    I think the more important factor is that the average current also changes when an SE amp with a non-centred bias current overdrives. But I might be wrong.
    Gagaryn said:

    I may start looking for a 5Y3GT so I can try it once everything is working any recommendation on what make to look for, or avoid? 
    Avoid Sovteks. They're unreliable and not even close to the proper spec for a 5Y3.

    Old-production ones aren't that expensive, and you can buy used ones fairly safely - unlike pre and power valves they very rarely have performance problems, they either work or don't.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 72369
    Get the JAN/Philips.

    I'm not sure the Brimar isn't a relabelled Russian one, that was quite common at the end of valve manufacture in the West. There are definitely Russian Brimar 6V6s with that sort of base getter. ESchap knows better than me!

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

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  • jpfampsjpfamps Frets: 2734
    I use those JAN 5Y3s and have never had a problem with them.

    The vendour says they are fully tested (and I have no reason to doubt this.
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  • GagarynGagaryn Frets: 1553
    Done! :-)
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  • GagarynGagaryn Frets: 1553
    Well 5 weeks down the line Weber are still waiting on the cab being built! I have read other comments online about a lot of waiting being involved with Weber orders! This is costing me money too - the more time I've got, the more I read about aspects of the Weber BOM that might be worth an upgrade. So far, due to the tedium of waiting I have bought replacement valves, sockets, filter caps, coupling caps, pilot light and jack sockets. And the wait continues...
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  • equalsqlequalsql Frets: 6123

    Gagaryn said:
    Well 5 weeks down the line Weber are still waiting on the cab being built! I have read other comments online about a lot of waiting being involved with Weber orders! This is costing me money too - the more time I've got, the more I read about aspects of the Weber BOM that might be worth an upgrade. So far, due to the tedium of waiting I have bought replacement valves, sockets, filter caps, coupling caps, pilot light and jack sockets. And the wait continues...
    You never know, you may end up with enough to build two amps ;)
    (pronounced: equal-sequel)   "I suffered for my art.. now it's your turn"
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  • GagarynGagaryn Frets: 1553
    Update - after ignoring my emails requesting a likely shipping date for a week I received an email on Friday explaining that I need to give them another $60 for shipping, no apology or explanation, just a single line email. They estimated the cost when I ordered and I paid the original amount, along with full payment at the beginning of May so this is disappointing. I asked why the postage was so much more than the estimate and got another one line reply saying the estimate was bad. 

    Searching the web, seems customer service is not their strong point. I paid the extra because I'm sick of waiting and it seemed discussion would be fruitless. Still no confirmation that it has been posted though.

    After i paid I checked what I had already paid and realised that they had their 'math' wrong and the extra they should have asked me for was actually $35. Looks like they can't count. Should have checked first! I've pointed this out but am still awaiting reply. It's put me off buying from them again, actually - if this is ok my plan was to build a 5E3 and another 5F2A for a friend.
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  • equalsqlequalsql Frets: 6123
    edited June 2014
    Sorry to hear they're screwing you around.
    It does seem their customer service department is run by someone with the social skills of a flattened toad. I noticed this extreme terseness when querying them about the cost of delivery of an item to the UK. The one-line response was rude enough to put me off ordering the item from them.  

    When the kit eventually does arrive, it should be good to go and the experience you get from building it should make up for the inconvenience.  Of course when you've finished it and experienced what's actually  involved, then you might be better placed for sourcing the parts for your next amp from other suppliers.
    (pronounced: equal-sequel)   "I suffered for my art.. now it's your turn"
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  • GagarynGagaryn Frets: 1553
    I think that's right, get one done and I'll be more confident, already learned a lot through reading whilst waiting. I'm sure I'll still have questions though!
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  • GagarynGagaryn Frets: 1553
    Well the kit is here. Build thread has been started in Making & Modding for those interested, here - - - - - - - - - - - - - - >>>

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