Help with soldering..

BeardyAndy

Is there a trick to getting solder to take on the back of pots?
i do a nice tidy job of wiring right up to that point and then it all goes to s**t! Same with the earth wire on the steel plate for the trem springs, what am I doing wrong?
using a 40w iron with a pointed tip

sixstringsupplies

heat the pot for longer before you flow in solder. You can also use sandpaper and scuff the area before applying solder (i personally don't recommend or like this but appreciate that my soldering iron is powerful enough as so this is not necessary. You can also try changing solder.  (i can confirm if you are soldering to the Strat harness you got off me, then scuffing pots is not necessary)

Caffeine_Vampire

You need a bigger tip for your iron 

munckee

I wired my tele from scratch. Took it to a luthier to cut the nut, he was also fitting a screw in jack plate and looked at my soldering and said "this is a bit rough who did this?"  So I made up a name obviously!

Paul_C

1. scrape the surface of the pot with a scalpel blade - I use an 18W soldering iron and it works just fine.

2. put solder directly onto the pot surface (or whatever you're soldering to) and on the wire you're attaching, that way you only need to melt the solder, not get the back of the pot hot enough to melt it

3. use leaded solder (you can still get it easily enough on ebay)

4. a flat faced tip works best, you should add a little solder to that too as it helps get the other solder melting.

BeardyAndy

sixstringsupplies said:

heat the pot for longer before you flow in solder. You can also use sandpaper and scuff the area before applying solder (i personally don't recommend or like this but appreciate that my soldering iron is powerful enough as so this is not necessary. You can also try changing solder.  (i can confirm if you are soldering to the Strat harness you got off me, then scuffing pots is not necessary)

Yes it is your harness. Got there in the end but gave up on the earth wire and tucked it behind one of the spring hooks (I will go back and do it properly, I promise!)

Paul_C said:

1. scrape the surface of the pot with a scalpel blade - I use an 18W soldering iron and it works just fine.

2. put solder directly onto the pot surface (or whatever you're soldering to) and on the wire you're attaching, that way you only need to melt the solder, not get the back of the pot hot enough to melt it

3. use leaded solder (you can still get it easily enough on ebay)

4. a flat faced tip works best, you should add a little solder to that too as it helps get the other solder melting.

Thanks for the tips. I am using lead solder, had it for years but I’ll invest in some new tips before my next project! 

Almach

The bigger the blob the better the job

ICBM

I don’t try to solder to the claw with an iron - I do it off the guitar, holding it with long-nose pliers and heat it in a gas hob flame until solder will melt directly onto it, then stick a pre-tinned wire into the blob of solder. Fit it to the guitar when it’s cooled down.

StoneWolf_Mike

The type of flux you use can also make a huge difference in how well the solder flows. If you're having problems getting solder to flow onto other surfaces or wires themselves, then if you've tried all other suggestions then swap out your flux for something else and you may find it gives better results.

BeardyAndy

StoneWolf_Mike said:

The type of flux you use can also make a huge difference in how well the solder flows. If you're having problems getting solder to flow onto other surfaces or wires themselves, then if you've tried all other suggestions then swap out your flux for something else and you may find it gives better results.

I've often wondered about the flux. Is there a particular flux that works better with lead over lead free, and is there a "holy grail" flux that all you pro's use?

StoneWolf_Mike

BeardyAndy said:

StoneWolf_Mike said:

The type of flux you use can also make a huge difference in how well the solder flows. If you're having problems getting solder to flow onto other surfaces or wires themselves, then if you've tried all other suggestions then swap out your flux for something else and you may find it gives better results.

I've often wondered about the flux. Is there a particular flux that works better with lead over lead free, and is there a "holy grail" flux that all you pro's use?

I can't really say much in terms of what works better for lead free versus leaded. I've only ever used lead free. I did find a flux that works beautifully with the lead free solder I use, in typical fashion I've forgotten the name, but can have a look when I'm in my workshop next Tuesday. 

bbill335

BeardyAndy said:

StoneWolf_Mike said:

The type of flux you use can also make a huge difference in how well the solder flows. If you're having problems getting solder to flow onto other surfaces or wires themselves, then if you've tried all other suggestions then swap out your flux for something else and you may find it gives better results.

I've often wondered about the flux. Is there a particular flux that works better with lead over lead free, and is there a "holy grail" flux that all you pro's use?

I use some aldi flux that came with an extremely shitty iron. Works as expected, or at least it’s better than no flux. 

BeardyAndy

@StoneWolf_Mike thanks. Sounds like my best bet is to buy a few and try em.

Danny1969

There is no point at all in soldering directly to the back of the pot ...the excessive heat can damage the pot and it achieves nothing other than recreating what was done for no reason 40 years ago.... just use the end lug as common ground. 

StoneWolf_Mike

BeardyAndy said:

@StoneWolf_Mike thanks. Sounds like my best bet is to buy a few and try em.

Hey man,

Back in the workshop today so could grab a pic of the flux I use. 



It really helps things to flow nicely with lead free.

ICBM

I wouldn’t use any kind of flux like that for electronics work - the residue causes corrosion. It’s for plumbing.

Just use proper resin-cored high silver content solder intended for electronics work and you won’t have a problem.

sixstringsupplies

ICBM said:

I wouldn’t use any kind of flux like that for electronics work - the residue causes corrosion. It’s for plumbing.

Just use proper resin-cored high silver content solder intended for electronics work and you won’t have a problem.

I get a lot of comments on my YouTube videos from Americans telling me to use flux. I never have and always used flux cored silver solder with no problems. 

Danny1969

sixstringsupplies said:

ICBM said:

I wouldn’t use any kind of flux like that for electronics work - the residue causes corrosion. It’s for plumbing.

Just use proper resin-cored high silver content solder intended for electronics work and you won’t have a problem.

I get a lot of comments on my YouTube videos from Americans telling me to use flux. I never have and always used flux cored silver solder with no problems. 

I never understand why people use flux in things like guitar pot or through hole component soldering. I do use it for BGA work on laptop boards but other than that never.

The basic trick to effortless soldering is simply use a good clean iron, tin the wire with a little solder and then heat the pot or switch contact  until the solder is happy to flow onto it .... most beginners try to use it like glue and that's where they go wrong with blobs of solder making poor joints. 

StoneWolf_Mike

Danny1969 said:

sixstringsupplies said:

ICBM said:

I wouldn’t use any kind of flux like that for electronics work - the residue causes corrosion. It’s for plumbing.

Just use proper resin-cored high silver content solder intended for electronics work and you won’t have a problem.

I get a lot of comments on my YouTube videos from Americans telling me to use flux. I never have and always used flux cored silver solder with no problems. 

I never understand why people use flux in things like guitar pot or through hole component soldering. I do use it for BGA work on laptop boards but other than that never.

The basic trick to effortless soldering is simply use a good clean iron, tin the wire with a little solder and then heat the pot or switch contact  until the solder is happy to flow onto it .... most beginners try to use it like glue and that's where they go wrong with blobs of solder making poor joints. 

Horses for courses I guess, I don't use it like glue, only the thinnest smear applied with a small syringe and needle, and have never had a problem with corrosion or poor joints in any of my work. There are plenty of things that boggle my mind in other people's processes but if it works for them and they get a good and reliable result then fair play really.

sixstringsupplies

StoneWolf_Mike said:

Horses for courses I guess, I don't use it like glue, only the thinnest smear applied with a small syringe and needle, and have never had a problem with corrosion or poor joints in any of my work. There are plenty of things that boggle my mind in other people's processes but if it works for them and they get a good and reliable result then fair play really.

yes that's the key! Everyone has their own technique and if it works for them that's all that matters.

BeardyAndy

Thanks @StoneWolf_Mike @sixstringsupplies @ICBM & @Danny1969 I've decided that as Ed did such a lovely job on the harness and its my best guitar that i'll get the soldering looked at while its having a set up and re dress. I will continue to hone my skills with the iron on lesser projects!