Query regarding finish compatibilities

Greetings folks,

I have, hopefully, a straightforward question to those of you who finish instrument bodies. I have a few bottles of Createx Auto-Air water-based paints that I'd bought several years ago with a view to spraying guitar bodies. Without the need for full-on nitrocellulose-proof gear. I figured water based would be easier..... However, whilst I am happy to give the spraying a go (from iridiescent/flip-flop colours to flourescents using a touch-up gun), I am unsure what would be the best topcoat to use.

Obviously, the key is to try things out first on a little scrap - so far some clear nitro from Steve Robinson over a couple layers acrylic (I think it is) iridescent blue. How long would you leave different finishes to sit for before accepting that they are compatibile?

Thoughts?

Adam

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Comments

  • BillKatBillKat Frets: 1487
    In short, once waterbase is dry you're ready. Drying time depends on heat, airflow, how thick, etc. Could be a few mins or a few hours.
    With w/b it's very unlikely a solvent-based clearcoat will wake it up & react etc, in the same way you can get reactions putting solvent paint onto solvent paint.

    One thing with those acrylics, if they're like the ones someone I know uses for small artwork bits on bike tanks etc, is the finish is quite sheeny? Not the best for another paint to stick to long term. But it might be OK, I've not used them so don't take that as gospel...
    Normally you don't want a paint going onto a shiney one, when there's no bond between the two like when nitro melts into nitro say. The w/b I have used soaks up clear like a sponge, a different type of paint though.
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