It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!
Subscribe to our Patreon, and get image uploads with no ads on the site!
The latest problem on my amp build:
I have quite a few wires to connect to one point on my eyelet board (four, I think, plus the capacitor and resistor legs that also share this eyelet) - I can just about do it but it's ugly and once everything is soldered I can't see how good the joint is so I'm not sure how long I can expect the joint to last.
Is it acceptable to take a short spur wire off this point and solder all the wires to the end of said spur and then insulate with heatshrink and securely fasten so it doesn't move around inside the chassis?
I can't think of any other way of doing it, to be honest, but just wondered if this is okay to do and won't have any unintended consequences I haven't thought about.
Thanks in advance.
There is no 'H' in Aych, you know that don't you? ~ Wife
Turns out there is an H in Haych! ~ Sporky
Bit of trading feedback here.
Base theme by DesignModo & ported to Powered by Vanilla by Chris Ireland, modified by the "theFB" team.
Comments
Or solder a post to the eyelet and then all your wires and components to that?
Caveat - I am not an amp builder but I have built amps
There is no 'H' in Aych, you know that don't you? ~ Wife
Turns out there is an H in Haych! ~ Sporky
Bit of trading feedback here.
It would be logically the same but maybe not as neat.
It can be easier to put the wires in first then the component leads - it's easier to push the stiff solid wires into a bundle of multi-strand wires than the other way round.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
The eyelet in question is is carrying a heavy multi core wire from the OT and another to the standby switch. There’s another single core wire which heads off to the positive end of a big-ish 20pF cap which itself is on pin 1 of the cap-can.
Theres also a 2 watt resistor of some sort sharing the offending eyelet. So not quite and many as I at first remembered there being but still proving a cow to neatly solder together in the eyelet space.
I’ve made a rod for my own back now in that I’ve already cut the OT wire to length and I’ve already made a bit of a hash of it trying to solder it in place.
There is no 'H' in Aych, you know that don't you? ~ Wife
Turns out there is an H in Haych! ~ Sporky
Bit of trading feedback here.
There is no 'H' in Aych, you know that don't you? ~ Wife
Turns out there is an H in Haych! ~ Sporky
Bit of trading feedback here.
I’ll check the joints and reflow - thanks for that.
It’s a Weber kit, I couldn’t find anyone else who did a 30ish watt 6L6 powered amp with valve rectifier, reverb and bias trem.
Whether that makes it good, bad or otherwise I don’t know. Some of the components are on the cheaper side but I’ll be happy if it works for now.
There is no 'H' in Aych, you know that don't you? ~ Wife
Turns out there is an H in Haych! ~ Sporky
Bit of trading feedback here.