Too many wires, what to do?

The latest problem on my amp build:

I have quite a few wires to connect to one point on my eyelet board  (four, I think, plus the capacitor and resistor legs that also share this eyelet) - I can just about do it but it's ugly and once everything is soldered I can't see how good the joint is so I'm not sure how long I can expect the joint to last.

Is it acceptable to take a short spur wire off this point and solder all the wires to the end of said spur and then insulate with heatshrink and securely fasten so it doesn't move around inside the chassis?

I can't think of any other way of doing it, to be honest, but just wondered if this is okay to do and won't have any unintended consequences I haven't thought about.

Thanks in advance.

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Comments

  • SteveRobinsonSteveRobinson Frets: 2180
    tFB Trader
    Can you add another eyelet and link it with a jumper?

    Or solder a post to the eyelet and then all your wires and components to that?

    Caveat - I am not an amp builder but I have built amps
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  • HaychHaych Frets: 885
    The eyelet board comes ready made and is already quite busy. I did think about soldering a post into the eyelet but not sure what I have handy that could serve that purpose. 


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  • SteveRobinsonSteveRobinson Frets: 2180
    edited July 11 tFB Trader
    What about soldering some to the other end of one of the wires if one is close enough?

    It would be logically the same but maybe not as neat.
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 38999
    Four wires plus two component legs should be do-able in a standard Fender-size eyelet, unless the wires are unnecessarily thick.

    It can be easier to put the wires in first then the component leads - it's easier to push the stiff solid wires into a bundle of multi-strand wires than the other way round.
    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

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  • Modulus_AmpsModulus_Amps Frets: 1009
    tFB Trader
    Sounds like a Princeton reverb type build? there are two eyelets/turrets on the layout that are a pain.

    if it is a cathode resistor and bypass cap, you can solder the cap directly onto the resistor leads rather than running them to the eyelet.

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  • HaychHaych Frets: 885
    It is indeed a Princeton type build. I can’t tell you what’s what in there, I know the difference between a resistor and a capacitor etc but couldn’t tell you what purpose they serve. 

    The eyelet in question is is carrying a heavy multi core wire from the OT and another to the standby switch. There’s another single core wire which heads off to the positive end of a big-ish 20pF cap which itself is on pin 1 of the cap-can. 

    Theres also a 2 watt resistor of some sort sharing the offending eyelet. So not quite and many as I at first remembered there being but still proving a cow to neatly solder together in the eyelet space. 

    I’ve made a rod for my own back now in that I’ve already cut the OT wire to length and I’ve already made a bit of a hash of it trying to solder it in place. 
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  • HaychHaych Frets: 885
    Well I managed to make it a bit better, it's still not fantastic but is a lot better than it was.  by far the hardest connection yet in the entire build.  Mind you I've not done the heater wires yet!




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  • Modulus_AmpsModulus_Amps Frets: 1009
    tFB Trader
    probably could have trimmed the wired back a bit to make it easier.

    you got some good heater burn on that cap, will probably still work ok though, fingers crossed.

    The solder joint on the lower left does not look like it has bonded to the eyelet properly, might be worth going over it again.

    Is that a Chinese kit?
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  • HaychHaych Frets: 885
    Yeah I caught that cap with the iron a couple of days ago :/

    I’ll check the joints and reflow - thanks for that. 

    It’s a Weber kit, I couldn’t find anyone else who did a 30ish watt 6L6 powered amp with valve rectifier, reverb and bias trem. 

    Whether that makes it good, bad or otherwise I don’t know. Some of the components are on the cheaper side but I’ll be happy if it works for now. 
    Wherever there is a human being, there is an opportunity for a kindness.
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