Reverb tank

What's Hot
electricswanelectricswan Frets: 16
Hi, I have a Fender Super Reverb reissue and I hate his Reverb tank. My 1st choice is the MOD from Amplified Parts
https://www.amplifiedparts.com/products/reverb-tank-mod-4ab3c1b

I see this one on ebay from UK but I don't know it but I prefer to buy in Europe
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F293080603159 

Also looking for TAD
https://www.tubeampdoctor.com/en/shop_Reverb_Cans_Effects_TAD_Reverb_Cans/4AB3C1B_TAD_Reverb_Can_2x2_Springs_2196

please help me.
Lucio
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Comments

  • ICBMICBM Frets: 72333
    The MOD and the TAD ones are the same as far as I can tell, apart from the outer finish. I think the Ebay one is too, but if you're in Europe you might be best just to go to TAD and be sure you're getting the right thing.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

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  • Modulus_AmpsModulus_Amps Frets: 2579
    tFB Trader
    From what I can tell they are all made in the same factory, MOD, MOJO, TAD, never heard of this MOX but it looks like the same thing. The TAD and MOD ones are good though and sound the same tone wise.

    you can get them from TAD, Tube Town, Modulus {me - I have both in stock}
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  • tomajohatomajoha Frets: 906
    I replaced the Belton tank in my Deluxe Reverb 65 RI with a TAD one as the Belton's connectors had gone dicky. The TAD is better made. The reverb is a little deeper/more pronounced on the TAD if that's to your liking or not
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  • bbill335bbill335 Frets: 1374
    Could try a different valve for the reverb section first?
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  • Modulus_AmpsModulus_Amps Frets: 2579
    tFB Trader
    bbill335 said:
    Could try a different valve for the reverb section first?
    The reverb tank used makes a much bigger difference than the driver/recovery valve
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  • I’ve just changed my broken Accu/Belton tank for a TAD and I think I prefer the A/B tank. The decay on the TAD seems too long and overall a bit too dark. May take some getting used to but so far my money is on the unreliable Accutronics tank.
    The Swamp City Shakers
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  • Modulus_AmpsModulus_Amps Frets: 2579
    tFB Trader
    I’ve just changed my broken Accu/Belton tank for a TAD and I think I prefer the A/B tank. The decay on the TAD seems too long and overall a bit too dark. May take some getting used to but so far my money is on the unreliable Accutronics tank.
    I prefer them too. But the unreliability is an issue.

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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 72333
    Modulus_Amps said:

    I prefer them too. But the unreliability is an issue.
    I've taken to pre-emptively modifying them when doing a full service on amps, if it's not too much of a pain to get at them - remove the connector block, solder the wires to the pins as close as possible to the bobbin, and either hot glue or use a small cable tie to fix the wires to the transducer frame. That seems to stop the problem.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

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  • I’ve just changed my broken Accu/Belton tank for a TAD and I think I prefer the A/B tank. The decay on the TAD seems too long and overall a bit too dark. May take some getting used to but so far my money is on the unreliable Accutronics tank.
    I prefer them too. But the unreliability is an issue.

    You’d think Accutronics would address this  seeing as it’s a fairly well noted problem.
    The Swamp City Shakers
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 72333
    bandmaster188 said:

    You’d think Accutronics would address this  seeing as it’s a fairly well noted problem.
    I think they’re too locked into that design to change it now - they’ve lost one of their major worldwide customers (Fender) because of it and that hasn’t made any difference.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

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  • Modulus_AmpsModulus_Amps Frets: 2579
    tFB Trader
    The push on connectors must save a good bit of time at assembly, maybe they think it makes the tanks more serviceable

    Thanks for the mod tip @ICBM will maybe start doing that to all the tanks we sell
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 72333

    Thanks for the mod tip @ICBM will maybe start doing that to all the tanks we sell
    It's a bit of a pain in the backside! I've developed a quick way of doing it, which is to shove a long screwdriver across the tank under the spring section to hold it up in the air where you can get at the pins more easily. It's still a bit fiddly though. 

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

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  • i’ve had a go at repairing mine and seems to be successful although the fault was intermittent so not 100% sure yet.
    had to put the wilko +2 specs on for this one though.
    mince pies are a bit squiffy now!
    The Swamp City Shakers
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