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Do YOU know how a guitar amp EQ works?

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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 72562
    I find the idea of not using the full range of the controls quite odd. I don’t have any hesitation in setting any control to full or zero if that’s where it sounds best.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

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  • KittyfriskKittyfrisk Frets: 18941
    ICBM said:
    I find the idea of not using the full range of the controls quite odd. I don’t have any hesitation in setting any control to full or zero if that’s where it sounds best.
    Once again. Curse you & you're bleeding common sense  ;) :3
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  • impmannimpmann Frets: 12671
    I once visited Marshall back in the day where the guys there said for any older Marshall dime all the tone controls and then roll back whatever sounds bad to you. Thats because on those amps, the tone controls attenuate therefore if the controls aren't most of the way up, you won't get the full output. It works for old Marshalls IMHO but not for Fenders (for example).

    The quote above regarding EQ is mine. My point is with modellers, they've modelled the tone stacks of all the classic amps... so you need to approach them the same way as you would the real thing... but few do. Also, most people set EQ on programmable modellers at home in isolation - get them out in a live environment and the nice smooth, harmonically rich sound dialled in gets lost in the splash of the drums and the boom of the bass. And when recording, the vast majority of the 'magic' of valve amps when recorded is due to mic position, EQ and mic - with a healthy dollop of post production. Approach your use of modelling in a similar way and you can't fail to get great sounds.
    Never Ever Bloody Anything Ever.

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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 72562
    impmann said:
    I once visited Marshall back in the day where the guys there said for any older Marshall dime all the tone controls and then roll back whatever sounds bad to you. Thats because on those amps, the tone controls attenuate therefore if the controls aren't most of the way up, you won't get the full output. It works for old Marshalls IMHO but not for Fenders (for example).
    Marshalls and most Fenders have exactly the same type of tone stacks. (With some differences in component values.) In fact almost all amps have passive, attenuating tone stacks - active stacks are very rare in guitar amps and are not generally popular because they can sound odd and are typically more 'touchy' to dial in compared to traditional passive ones.

    But there is a major difference in that later Fenders (not Tweeds) do have the tone stack much earlier in the circuit than Marshalls - all the amps derived from the 5F6-A Bassman circuit (Marshall, Soldano, Mesa Rectifier etc) have it after where some, or all if the master volume turned down, of the distortion is generated, whereas BF Fenders and amps derived from them (eg Mark series Boogies) have it before any distortion - which does also make them more touchy.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

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  • welshboyowelshboyo Frets: 1818
    So..that Matt Schofield technique - how do you do it - do you start with Bass Control (all others at 0) and find the sweet spot, leave it there and move on to the Mid etc etc or do you start with all at 0, find the sweet spot for each one, remember them and then set at end?
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  • John_AJohn_A Frets: 3775
    edited November 2019
    ICBM said:
    I find the idea of not using the full range of the controls quite odd. I don’t have any hesitation in setting any control to full or zero if that’s where it sounds best.
    Exactly - JTM45 with Les Paul & bass control at 12:00 = Flub, Bass off  = wonderful (to my ears at least)
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  • PhiltrePhiltre Frets: 4175
    Playing solo at home, up goes the Bass knob. In a band, down she goes.
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  • Rowby1Rowby1 Frets: 1282
    @Clecko nearly started a thread with exactly the same question. 

    My approach is use my ears and fiddle with the controls until I’m happy, no science involved at all. 

    As an aside, I have noticed that by lowering the bass control I can get what I assume is just a perceived increase in clean headroom. Is it just my perception or does lowering the bass control actually give the amp more clean headroom? Seems the same for my Egnater Tweaker, DRRI and MJW.
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  • ICBM said:
    5 if they go from 1 to 10.
    Dont fenders lose volume below 5 on the eq stack?

    I cant remember if that's a twin only thing
    The Bigsby was the first successful design of what is now called a whammy bar or tremolo arm, although vibrato is the technically correct term for the musical effect it produces. In standard usage, tremolo is a rapid fluctuation of the volume of a note, while vibrato is a fluctuation in pitch. The origin of this nonstandard usage of the term by electric guitarists is attributed to Leo Fender, who also used the term “vibrato” to refer to what is really a tremolo effect.
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 72562
    Rowby1 said:

    As an aside, I have noticed that by lowering the bass control I can get what I assume is just a perceived increase in clean headroom. Is it just my perception or does lowering the bass control actually give the amp more clean headroom? Seems the same for my Egnater Tweaker, DRRI and MJW.
    Yes, it does - by lowering the bass you're reducing the amount of bottom end going into the following stages, so they won't overdrive quite as early.

    meltedbuzzbox said:

    Dont fenders lose volume below 5 on the eq stack?

    I cant remember if that's a twin only thing
    All amps with passive tone stacks lose volume at some settings, especially if you turn all of them down at the same time. Depending on the exact configuration of the mid control, they may go to silent with them all at zero - most Fenders with mid controls do, although Marshalls don't.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

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  • ICBM said:
    I find the idea of not using the full range of the controls quite odd. I don’t have any hesitation in setting any control to full or zero if that’s where it sounds best.
    I sometimes need the full range to make sure that the presence is always pointing towards mecca
    ဈǝᴉʇsɐoʇǝsǝǝɥɔဪቌ
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  • ICBM said:
    impmann said:
    I once visited Marshall back in the day where the guys there said for any older Marshall dime all the tone controls and then roll back whatever sounds bad to you. Thats because on those amps, the tone controls attenuate therefore if the controls aren't most of the way up, you won't get the full output. It works for old Marshalls IMHO but not for Fenders (for example).
    Marshalls and most Fenders have exactly the same type of tone stacks. (With some differences in component values.) In fact almost all amps have passive, attenuating tone stacks - active stacks are very rare in guitar amps and are not generally popular because they can sound odd and are typically more 'touchy' to dial in compared to traditional passive ones.

    But there is a major difference in that later Fenders (not Tweeds) do have the tone stack much earlier in the circuit than Marshalls - all the amps derived from the 5F6-A Bassman circuit (Marshall, Soldano, Mesa Rectifier etc) have it after where some, or all if the master volume turned down, of the distortion is generated, whereas BF Fenders and amps derived from them (eg Mark series Boogies) have it before any distortion - which does also make them more touchy.
    Interesting sd it kinda naturally demonstrates why a tube screamer became so popular with a specific demographic. 
    ဈǝᴉʇsɐoʇǝsǝǝɥɔဪቌ
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  • FunkfingersFunkfingers Frets: 14558
    ICBM said:
    almost all amps have passive, attenuating tone stacks
    Correct.

    The Cornell Romany Plus has an EQ Cut switch. Bypassing the tone stack makes the amplifier noticeably louder. (Shades of 5F1 Champ.)
    You say, atom bomb. I say, tin of corned beef.
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 72562
    The Cornell Romany Plus has an EQ Cut switch. Bypassing the tone stack makes the amplifier noticeably louder.
    Mesa use an overly large mid control value on some amps too - 250K log instead of 25K linear which would be a more normal value - and since the whole tone stack goes through the mid control to ground, when the control is turned up above halfway it starts to reduce the tone stack loss and acts as an extra 'gain' control as well.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

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  • NelsonPNelsonP Frets: 3403
    edited November 2019
    My amp came with a thing called a manual. It has some helpful tips:

    TREBLE This is the most powerful of the three rotary tone controls. At high settings (7 ½ and
    above) it will appear to minimize the effect of the Bass and Middle controls. But they will become the
    stronger controls when the Treble is set below 5. For those who split hairs tonally and want the very
    best, most bubbly and funky clean tones, you should find the exact spot on the Treble where all three
    tone controls are balanced. This will usually be somewhere between 5 and 7.
    When playing hard-core crunch, especially at very soft practice volumes, the 50 will usually sound
    better with the Treble and Presence set quite high. This will help produce sustain and harmonic
    jumps at soft playing levels.

    For silky, warm and round jazz tones, run the .50 Caliber in the Rhythm mode with the Treble set low
    and the Bass and Middle turned up higher. Add sparkle with the Presence control.

    BASS, MIDDLE You've already read our recommendations for these settings in the TREBLE section
    above, and because the tone controls are interactive, all three must be set together.
    That "sweet spot" setting for maximal funky clean tones also depends on the right amount of Bass
    and Middle. Settings of 4 to 6 for both of these controls will usually provide the best balance against
    "that perfect Treble setting" where the tone is springy and bright but not "hard" sounding.
    The Bass and Middle response has been very carefully designed to allow fatness in the Rhythm
    mode while avoiding tubbiness or flab when footswitching to a crunch, lead or metal tone.
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  • I know that the further I turn the Master Volume anti-clockwise the happier MrsLostSon is with my playing.
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  • PhiltrePhiltre Frets: 4175
    edited November 2019
    Some people actually don't know what Bass and Treble are. I once sold an amp to a punter who wanted to know what the "Bass" knob was for. He pronounced it like the fish. I told him it helps to keep the guitar in Tuna.

    Sadly, that is a true story.
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  • Minor tweaks from 12 o’clock but not with any understanding or knowledge. 

    Then I got a Mesa Mark V:25. And was lost.

    Now on Helix, post-Kemper, and happy enough. Still don’t know how to tweak but get by.
    Trading feedback info here

    My band, Red For Dissent
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  • jeztone2jeztone2 Frets: 2160
    I tend to set it up to taste. Then adjust once I’m in a room with a drummer. What sounds good on it’s own probably won’t cut it in a live band context. 

    Also it’s about the other instruments. If Im in a two guitar band. There’s more to consider than if I’m the only guitar player. That tends to affect my choice of instruments too. 
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  • NelsonPNelsonP Frets: 3403
    edited November 2019
    Minor tweaks from 12 o’clock but not with any understanding or knowledge. 

    Then I got a Mesa Mark V:25. And was lost.

    Now on Helix, post-Kemper, and happy enough. Still don’t know how to tweak but get by.
    My tone training by Mesa (above) means that I still want to set Bass and Middle at 3-4 and treble at 6-7 on everything.
    This doesn't work very well on my Atomic Amplifire.
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