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One of the highly-regarded amp builders in the USA reckons that for a single-piece mahogany body like a Les Paul Junior, the best sound comes from a body which is cut so it has an arch in the grain facing towards the bridge side, like the piece marked 'slab' here, if the bridge is on the top...
Whether there is any real truth in that I don't know - but the best-sounding modern LP Junior I've played had a body exactly like that. Coincidence?
In a Standard I think it's much more of a stretch, since the maple cap will have a large effect on the resonance of the back piece.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
I'd have thought if the tones go round all the curvier grains they'd be soaked up quicker lol.
There was a Tim Pierce video the other day with Howard Leese. It was too long and frankly a bit boring to watch the whole thing, but I think at one point Howard was saying that LPs with a particular type of grain in the mahogany sound better.
It may be the same thing you heard.
This technique is recognised for producing guitars that have a more rounded tone.
"How 'round' is the ideal tone?", I hear you ask.
About 7 inch radius is a good rule of thumb. Any rounder... and the guitar may only be suitable for playing classic hits by the 70s band Curved Air.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
I wouldn't want to route (rout?) it to fit a pickup or something. MDF is horrible stuff.
John Robson demo link...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nt861CMoc5M&t=40s
Its true that as you cut wood it releases stresses in the fibers which is why it bows and twists sometimes.. But usually once you cut it and then thickness it, a guitar body sized piece of wood shouldn't move again.. Much Quarter sawing wood does help with all of this but even that doesn't guarantee that it wont move.. Some pieces just don't want to play ball no matter what you do to them. Also the moisture content plays a big part... All of the wood I work with is generally kiln or air dried to about 8-10% mc... A wetter (or greener) piece is way more likely to move as it dries. So there are things you can do to help as much as one can with wood (it can be a right pain in the arse when building a big table like this, you absolutely have to account for wood movement when the pieces are this long).
https://i.imgur.com/NZ6YjHd.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/xaZ4aH3.jpg
http://www.rabswoodguitars.co.uk/
https://www.facebook.com/RabsWoodGuitars/
My Youtube page
To me I think it's all a load of nonsense .
The principle is good. The same as multi piece necks minimising movement. Its the same principle as plywood, but with thicker layers and maybe better wood.
The only rational criticism I have heard of plywood is that contains too much glue. The glue can affect weight and may affect tone. I dont profess to know, but I am sceptical. I did use a plywood Washburn for home practice for 18 years. It sounded pretty good. A lot of the time we equate cost with quality/function, but it doesn't necessarily follow.