Guitar paint stripping

AlexWilmot

Hi all

I have recently taken ownership of a partsJEM build,
It was sprayed with automotive grade paint apparently and I'm not a fan of the colour, do I strip this with some paint stripper? heatgun? 
not sure if this differs to the usual poly finish on guitars

Regards 

paulnb57

Can you tell if the paint is quite thin, if so it might be easier to sand it off, paint stripper works well, but is messy, heat gun works ok, but be careful not to scorch the wood or gouge it with your scraper....

AlexWilmot

It actually looks like its been heavily applied, there's a primer coat, few coats of colour(he can't remember how many) and a clear applied,

I intend to strip it all the way back and use a oil/stain for a more natural look

Corvus

If it's DIY spray can job it's most likely solvent-based, will wipe off with celly thinners or acetone. Messy old job but gets there. Easy to test as well, if it marks up with a kitchen towel it's a solvent based 1k paint.

If it was paintshop-sprayed then it could be two-pack (aka 2k) which is much tougher, but a strong trade or bodyshop stripper takes it off eventually, with wrapping and several goes, it's not instant. DIY shop paint stripper won't work. Heat may work but have to be a bit careful. Sometimes it works very easily, sometimes not.

Also if shop-sprayed it could be both types - solvent-based basecoat colour, with the tough 2k clearcoat over it.. the primer could be all sorts.

prowla

I'm in the process of stripping a Vox Clubman bass I bought at a car boot; I tried paint stripper, but it just mushed the paint over the body, so I've reverted to a sanding block and elbow grease.

I've also got a Tokai Strat which I'm removing varnish from; the previous owner stripped off the original finish and varnished it, and then gave up. I think they must've used a chisel, because there are some gouges in it.

I'm going to have to use some filler on some bits

and maybe splice a shim of wood on the neck pocket to sort that out.

AlexWilmot

Corvus said:

If it's DIY spray can job it's most likely solvent-based, will wipe off with celly thinners or acetone. Messy old job but gets there. Easy to test as well, if it marks up with a kitchen towel it's a solvent based 1k paint.

If it was paintshop-sprayed then it could be two-pack (aka 2k) which is much tougher, but a strong trade or bodyshop stripper takes it off eventually, with wrapping and several goes, it's not instant. DIY shop paint stripper won't work. Heat may work but have to be a bit careful. Sometimes it works very easily, sometimes not.

Also if shop-sprayed it could be both types - solvent-based basecoat colour, with the tough 2k clearcoat over it.. the primer could be all sorts.

Pretty sure its 2K then, Guy said he got it painted at the same place his Alfa spider was done

AlexWilmot

This is what I picked up btw


Has a Dimarzio Evo2 Bridge, unknown seymour duncan mid(really old looking) and apparntly a schaller in the neck

AlexWilmot

For anyone looking into this, Nitro Mors works with 2k automotive paint fairly well

Corvus

It might not be 2k clear then, it could be a 1k solvent clear, though in a spray shop you'd think they would use 2k being as its a std car paint system. DIY nitromors usually doesn't bother 2k hardly at all.

If the clear softens up with solvent after a min or two it'll be a 1k type though sounds like you're sorted anyways.