Help on wiring output transformer to a mono female jack socket instead of directly to the speaker

Instead of mounting and removing a series of speakers that I already have inside other cabs, I would like to run the output of my combo to a mono jack socket so I can connect to the other cabs easily.

Currently the yellow wire goes directly from the output transformer to the positive lug on the speaker, and the blue wire goes to the negative.

Does yellow go to the furthest terminal or the nearest terminal (to the nut of the socket)?
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Comments

  • lukedlblukedlb Frets: 488
     
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  • lukedlblukedlb Frets: 488
    Is this right?

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  • lukedlblukedlb Frets: 488
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  • FunkfingersFunkfingers Frets: 14571
    edited February 2020
    lukedlb said:
    Does yellow go to the furthest terminal or the nearest terminal (to the nut of the socket)?
    Yellow = positive = tip = further from hex nut.
    Blue = negative = sleeve = nearer to hex nut.



    For what you are considering, I would want a jack socket with four terminals.

    In the default mode, the signal passes from one pair of terminals to the other via the sprung contacts. In extension loudspeaker mode, the jack socket breaks the connection to the internal loudspeaker.

    If the rear panel has enough room, it might be wiser to install two sockets. One for the internal loudspeaker and one for the external. (This would require a TS male jack socket fitting to the internal loudspeaker cables.) It may also be desirable to add an impedance selector.
    You say, atom bomb. I say, tin of corned beef.
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  • lukedlblukedlb Frets: 488
    lukedlb said:
    Does yellow go to the furthest terminal or the nearest terminal (to the nut of the socket)?
    Yellow = positive = tip = further from hex nut.
    Blue = negative = sleeve = nearer to hex nut.



    For what you are considering, I would want a jack socket with four terminals.

    In the default mode, the signal passes from one pair of terminals to the other via the sprung contacts. In extension loudspeaker mode, the jack socket breaks the connection to the internal loudspeaker.

    If the rear panel has enough room, it might be wiser to install two sockets. One for the internal loudspeaker and one for the external. (This would require a TS male jack socket fitting to the internal loudspeaker cables.) It may also be desirable to add an impedance selector.
    This exercise will only be a temporary thing to determine if I should replace the current speaker and therefore its baffle. Why? Well, I'm unable to extract the bolts in the baffle as their placement nuts are rusted in (or I'm being daft) and it's an old Italian Alnico speaker with holes that don't match common speakers. I'm hoping that it's the speaker that is producing the tinny highs on the attack, which can be fixed with a good old V30. Then again, it could be the amp (similar to a Binson from the 60s). A quick test with a V30 should confirm this or not.
    An impedence selector would help although I don't plan on running anything other than 8ohms.
    Thanks for the advice @Funkfingers ;

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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 72598
    lukedlb said:

    Currently the yellow wire goes directly from the output transformer to the positive lug on the speaker, and the blue wire goes to the negative.

    Does yellow go to the furthest terminal or the nearest terminal (to the nut of the socket)?
    It doesn't actually matter if you're only running a single cab, but conventionally you would connect the yellow to the terminal furthest from the panel.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

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