Wilkinson bridge - is this right?

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davrosdavros Frets: 1351
Just received a Wilkinson WVP 2-point trem. My understanding is the 2 point bridges should have a 'knife edge', i.e. a single point of contact between the bridge and the bridge post.

On this bridge, one of the contact points is pretty flat - maybe 1.5mm, rather than a point. As a result, the contact point doesn't sit properly in the post, and I can imagine it not performing particularly well.

My question is - is this fine, and I should stop worrying and just fit it, or send it back and look for something else?



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Comments

  • JeremiahJeremiah Frets: 631
    edited March 2020
    This doesn't look right to me - I have a similar Wilkinson bridge (not sure if it's the exact same model) and the part where it contacts the post definitely looks thinner than in your picture.

    Edit - it's quite hard to see with the bridge fitted and strings attached, but I'm pretty sure that on mine the knife edge is not literally as sharp as a knife, but it does fit into the groove on the post.
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  •  The knife edge should be sharp, looks like QC missed it send it back for a replacement
    www.maltingsaudio.co.uk
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  • Philly_QPhilly_Q Frets: 23024
    Have they changed the design?  The bridge in the first pic here has a noticeably thinner section where it touches the stud, but in the second picture the top of the plate looks completely flat:

    Image result for Wilkinson WVP
    Image result for Wilkinson WVP

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  • davrosdavros Frets: 1351
    Thanks for the responses - it's the same design and the rounded area where it touches the (left) stud is thin, maybe 0.5mm. The part on the right, I believe should be thinned to about the same degree (you can see where the thickness is reduced). On mine they look to have gone a bit crazy with the grinder, taking too much of the thinned area away.


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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 72518
    Definitely faulty. It’s called a knife edge pivot for a reason.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

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  • Philly_QPhilly_Q Frets: 23024
    Yes, that looks wrong.  I think you should send it back.  Hope the whole batch wasn't messed up!
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  • davrosdavros Frets: 1351
    Cool, I've requested a return. Will ask them to check the replacement before it's sent out!
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  • MusicwolfMusicwolf Frets: 3667
    Here's one from my Eggle Berlin (not the original), VS100N I think.


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  • prowlaprowla Frets: 4936
    It can't be right - it will clunk as the edges drop into place when you shift the trem.
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 72518
    prowla said:
    It can't be right - it will clunk as the edges drop into place when you shift the trem.
    It's worse - looking at it, I don't think it can even do that, I think both edges will grind up and down on the surfaces of the pivot post, so major tuning trouble is guaranteed.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

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  • Philly_QPhilly_Q Frets: 23024
    Years ago I had a Kahler Traditional bridge which uses the heads of the mounting screws as knife edges.  The instructions weren't very clear and I just propped the bridge against the sides of the screws.  It did work, but not very well.

    Top is the right way, bottom is the wrong way!

    Image result for kahler traditional
    Image result for kahler traditional
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  • davrosdavros Frets: 1351
    This isn't one of the Gotoh-made models, it was only about £40 so not expecting it to be top notch but looks like it's not fit for purpose right now.
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 72518
    davros said:
    This isn't one of the Gotoh-made models, it was only about £40 so not expecting it to be top notch but looks like it's not fit for purpose right now.
    Is it even genuine? I seem to remember hearing about counterfeit Wilkinson stuff, but I haven’t seen any.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

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  • davrosdavros Frets: 1351
    I think so, it was from a well known guitar parts seller via Amazon. Only came via Amazon as it was a birthday pressie. Luckily from my wife so easy enough to return!
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  • prowlaprowla Frets: 4936
    Lateral thinking, but is it the post which is at fault (or are the two posts different)?
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 72518
    prowla said:
    Lateral thinking, but is it the post which is at fault (or are the two posts different)?
    No, it’s the bridge plate. The knife edge should come to a sharp point, which will then centre in the softer-V shaped groove on the post. The bottom of the groove should *not* come to a sharp point. The sharper the knife edge and the flatter the surface it’s touching at the exact point of contact, the lower the friction.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

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  • Philly_QPhilly_Q Frets: 23024
    As a general (possibly daft) question, do the knife-edges on two-point tremolo bridges (Floyds included) tend to wear out quite quickly, and is there much that can be done to repair that, short of replacing the entire bridge (or bridge plate and studs, at least)?

    I've had a few Fender American Standards with two-point bridges, and the aforementioned Kahler, but I've never kept any of those guitars long enough to see the bridges wear out.
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 72518
    The knife edges do wear - obviously the quality of the metal matters a lot as to how fast. Some Floyds have them as separate hardened steel inserts, which could in theory be replaced, although I've never done it. Otherwise, the only recourse is to re-grind them so they're sharper, although that also unavoidably moves the edge further backwards, which can cause intonation problems if the saddles can't be moved far enough.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

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  • Philly_QPhilly_Q Frets: 23024
    ICBM said:
    Some Floyds have them as separate hardened steel inserts, which could in theory be replaced, although I've never done it. 
    Yes, I've got an old Schaller - Floyd Rose II, I think - which has separate inserts.  Never really used it properly, I put it on a partscaster I made about 30 years ago, tried to convert a 22-fret body to take a 24-fret neck and the intonation wasn't quite right.  It's the only time I've owned a Floyd, I hated the setup and string-changing process and I didn't like the feel of the bridge in use either.

    But I digress.  It does look like it would be pretty difficult to remove and replace the inserts.
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