Jazzmaster GAS

Dan_Halen

Got a bit of a gap in the stable for something that isn’t SC or humbucker and fancy a Jazzmaster because they look awesome and love the sounds. 

However, people seem to use them with heavier strings and I’ve always been under the impression they need a slightly higher action that other guitars due to the trem. Is this a total misconception I've picked up from who knows where?

I tend to use 9.5s on a strat and a lowish action due to bad hands making anything higher/heavier a real chore. Need it not shredder low but on the lower side of things and 10s would be fine. 

Can you get a Jazzmaster fairly low and would 9.5/10s work?

DrBob

I think you need to get a bit of downward pressure on the bridge to get the best out of them but I guess you could shim the neck to get the bridge height up whilst keeping the action down. I had 10-52’s on mine, seemed to work fine.
wish I hadn’t sold it tbh 

munckee

I've just bought a squier j mascis jazzmaster because it has a tune o matic bridge and the tremolo is slightly closer meaning you don't need to make changes to keep it stable.  Only had it a day but seems to achieve what I want it to - still sounds like a jazzmaster.

It's worth checking out the Guitar Manifesto on youtube he does endless videos about jazzmasters and jaguars and how to deal with the issues.

Funkfingers

You may be confusing the Jazzmaster and Jaguar guitars. Same outline, different scale lengths.

It is the shorter scale of the Jaguar that obliges larger strings in order to maintain similar overall string tension.

Thus, my Jazzmaster is 010-048 and my Jaguar is 011 or 012 to fifty something.

Additionally, there is the inability of the vintage style “threaded” bridge saddles to prevent the strings from hopping over the “thread” ridges during vigorous playing. 

Whitecat

Funkfingers said:

You may be confusing the Jazzmaster and Jaguar guitars. Same outline, different scale lengths.

It is the shorter scale of the Jaguar that obliges larger strings in order to maintain similar overall string tension.

Thus, my Jazzmaster is 010-048 and my Jaguar is 011 or 012 to fifty something.

Additionally, there is the inability of the vintage style “threaded” bridge saddles to prevent the strings from hopping over the “thread” ridges during vigorous playing. 

^^ this - 10s are fine on a JM, 11s or higher (and preferably roundwound) are preferable on a Jag, to me anyway!

chrisj1602

I’ve got a Staytrem bridge and use 10s on my Vintera Jazzmaster and it is really nice to play.

stickyfiddle

On the old style bridges 11s help stop them skipping over the threads of the saddles, but with a Staytrem and a chunky shim you can use skinny strings just fine. 

I use 9s on my JM and it sounds huge

Loobs

In my limited experience, I think a JM needs 11s. A shim will also help if the neck pocket isn't angled to increase neck pitch. They are incredible guitars when set up right and with good pickups in them. Super versatile. 

Teyeplayer

As stated above, 10s and a staytrem on a traditional JM should be fine. Do experiment with slightly heavier strings and even flat wounds -it’s an easy adjustment that helps you find what is best for you. 

Another option that will have the traditionalists rolling in the aisles and turning in their graves is the American Performer series. These are generally priced at only a little more (£50 or so) than the vintera series and there are plenty of b-stock models that crop up. They have a strat bridge and none of the rhythm circuit switches of a traditional JM. I took one in trade not so long ago and it’s possibly the best thing I’ve ever accidentally done. Much as I love the traditional JM appointments and find them both unique and useable, this  is undeniably a cracking guitar. My band have been blown away by the sound (when your drummer comments you know it’s worth paying attention), it’s easy to play and is just an all round over-looked corker! Edit: and it easily takes 10s.

Paul_C

Funkfingers said:

Additionally, there is the inability of the vintage style “threaded” bridge saddles to prevent the strings from hopping over the “thread” ridges during vigorous playing. 

What I did was work out where I wanted the strings to be and then filed a deeper groove.

Pabcrane

I've been using a Jazzmaster for years with 10-46, no buzz and a pretty low action. I have it setup every couple of years but that's probably because I'm too lazy to do it myself.

It is stock except for one groove filed in the low E saddle - like that mentioned above - which happened long before I got it. The other strings have no problems with saddle-jumping. The guitar is about 40 years old, no shims or anything special, I've played it for over a decade.

simonhpieman

Definitely 10s. Definitely no problem with getting a low action. Most Jazzmasters (even Squiers) come with a factory shim so you should have no problem at all getting the correct string tension and action you're after.

I reckon you might get away with 9.5s too. Worth a go, I've never actually tried anything lighter than 10. If you run into trouble with slippage (has only ever happened on the low E for me) then maybe migrate to a light top and heavy bottom set and see how you get on.

I've a very heavy right hand and even I only skipped the string out once through all the times I gigged my JMs. And it's not like its hard to slip it straight back in (oo err missus).

Jazzmasters are wicked. You'll love it. I've only got a Jag at the moment but the darker side is calling to me again!

Dan_Halen

This is good news for me, bad news for the old wallet.

Is there anything that is an absolute must? People talk about replacing the bridges with Staytrem or Mastery and, to be honest, I've no idea why or the differences between them. Are these considered essential to get the best out of the guitar or a desirable/preferential upgrade for some point down the line?

simonhpieman

Dan_Halen said:

This is good news for me, bad news for the old wallet.

Is there anything that is an absolute must? People talk about replacing the bridges with Staytrem or Mastery and, to be honest, I've no idea why or the differences between them. Are these considered essential to get the best out of the guitar or a desirable/preferential upgrade for some point down the line?

In my opinion they're totally unnecessary (not to mention expensive) alterations. Add to that the Mastery looks like the ugly teeth of that big James Bond bloke who bites through the cable car cable.

The cheapest Chinese replacement bridges can be a little flimsy but when everyone's changing out their original Fender bridges it means you can pick up a genuine US one for pence (mine cost a tenner off here).

I'm convinced people change their offset bridges only because they've read that's the thing to do. Many claim improvements to sustain but that to me would be like sacrificing the quacky inbetween Strat tones by putting in two humbuckers and claiming the tone is improved. Of course it's technically "fatter" or whatever but that's not the point.

I will concede that a correctly radiused Staytrem will make setup a little quicker and easier and basically eliminates the possibility of string slippage but a well setup guitar will play just as well.

Which model are you thinking about? Either way, give it a go and see how you like it before you automatically spend £150+ on just a replacement bridge.

If you have any doubt about how it plays and aren't confident setting it up yourself then a good setup at £40-£50 will be the best value, IMO.

If you're getting a model with the trem lock I'd also make sure that is set right. If you break a string you slide the trem lock on and it returns to correct pitch!

Pabcrane

No, not essential. I would liken it to the difference on a Strat between a 6 screw vintage trem and the modern 2 point one - some people swear by both of them.

the 2 point people will say that theirs is a logical improvement and can't understand why the 6 screw people use an outdated system, the 6 point people think that original is best...

Maybe that's a bit of a tortured analogy. 

Funkfingers

Staytrem uses Mustang type saddles to avoid the self-lowering grub screws problem. It also realigns the strings a little further in from the edges of the fingerboard. 

For older Fenders, Staytrem offers an arm and collet upgrade. More recent American vintage re-issue offsets have adopted similar refinements.

The Mastery is a more complex piece of engineering. I have not tried one. Hence, I shall leave it to those who have to comment upon it.

simonhpieman

Funkfingers said:

Staytrem uses Mustang type saddles to avoid the self-lowering grub screws problem. It also realigns the strings a little further in from the edges of the fingerboard. 

Not to labour a point but the original bridge with its multiple slots means you can align the strings wherever you like... 

Also, my American Standard Strat grub screw did some self-lowering the other day so it's not just offset bridges that are susceptible.

Hattigol

This is mine (picture nicked from Peach).
Always had 10s on it - plays perfectly.

Dan_Halen

Man, that is lush. I'd been eyeing up sparkle finishes after @TheMarlin mentioned his sparkly pink one. Although they seem to be restricted to CS Fenders.

What are the go to ones for someone wishing to dip his toe? I did try a Vintera but the shop set-up was pretty rank and put me right off. Tried one of the American Pro ones as well and played pretty well but sure I've read somewhere they're not actually Jazzmaster pickups (although they can obviously be swapped out). Anyone got an American Original?

Hattigol

Thanks. If you fancy a subtle sparkle, have a look at the new Ultra. The Mocha Burst has a very light gold sparkle to it. Not played one but reviews look great, in the main. 

May be best hanging on a while though - not really seen any reductions on them as yet.

stickyfiddle

If we’re doing pictures....