Tips on making neck laminates without a planer/ thicknesser?

PeteC

Sorry for so many novice questions but felt that this would be a good place to ask....

after some positive advice here about using Idigbo for a neck build  (thanks @WezV ) I have decided to laminate my next neck build using Idigbo and maybe with some Utile as a centre strip.  It’s going to be for an Idigbo Tele build.  

But one thing I am grappling with is how to get accurate flat laminates for good jointing ? I have plenty of Idigbo plank that I can use to make the neck laminates.  

I don’t have a planer thicknesser but am pretty ok with handplanes    So that might be one option. 
I have a good table saw and a dodgy bandsaw ! 

Any tips on making the individual laminated neck sections without a thicknesser ? 

Cheers 

WezV

If you are good with hand planes, go with that.

 I wouldn't be without a thicknesses now, but I did many laminated neck through in the early days without one.

PeteC

Thanks.   I am thinking to rip on the table saw first into sectional lengths then try trying up as best I can using the longest plane I have.  I did wonder whether I should use a sanding beam instead though if anyone else was using that method with good results.   

greggreg66

Router sled? Maybe slide the router on some MDF strips either side of the timber, finish with the handplane?

WezV

PeteC said:

Thanks.   I am thinking to rip on the table saw first into sectional lengths then try trying up as best I can using the longest plane I have.  I did wonder whether I should use a sanding beam instead though if anyone else was using that method with good results.   

I do use various sanding beams too, but not really for this job. 

greggreg66 said:

Router sled? Maybe slide the router on some MDF strips either side of the timber, finish with the handplane?

Router sleds are great for levelling off and thicknessing during construction.   Is would need to be a long one for joing neck lams, and would need some attention to finalise the joins..  although really the same is true of a thicknesses, even that needs a final scrape before it's ready for glueing

greggreg66

I suppose it depends on the size of the piece. I was just thinking if it’s for a neck lamination it might only be thin so the ‘jig’ could simply be a strip of 18mm either side (depending on starting thickness, but could be table sawed down first). But also does mean you need a flat bench : )

I have a spiral head on my P/T which leaves a finer finish than standard knives (and so much quieter!) - still needs a sand after of course, but it’s a thing of joy to use

PeteC

Going to try ripping and using the long jointer plane to start with. I do use a router sled for fretboard thicknessing And body thicknessing but still get very small lines which need sanding out.  

Andyjr1515

You say you have a good table saw, @PeteC ; ?

It depends on the type, but if it will do a decently accurate rip, especially dimensionally, then finishing off with a sanding beam is perfectly feasible.

Using a sanding beam from a clean cut from a good bandsaw is also feasible, but you describe yours as a bit dodgy and that would be very hard work!

PeteC

yes the saw is a DeWalt DW745, and cuts accurately.    I am thinking of getting an extra fine blade for it too which would help.   Also due to 2 cancelled holidays a new bandsaw is in the offing ! I definitely don't have space for a planer though. 

Roland

Not even a table top thicknesser?

PeteC

I'd love one but even that would be a push in the small workshop/shed  - now that its got the table saw, pillar drill, mitre saw, router table and spindle sander !!  Don't think the wife will let me put it in the spare room. 

I'll persevere with the jointer plane - just been watching Ben Crowe do a laminated neck on one of his early videos with a hand jointer. 

greggreg66

What if you really really, really really, really really sharpen the lawn mower blades and mow over it..... 

PeteC

LOL !