Strat bridge placement question

I bought some strat type bits to pass the time during lockdown. Thing is, I bought a cheap body, that doesn’t have the 6 holes drilled for the ‘wobbly bridge’ and being inexperienced with strats, I’m at a loss, as to where the bridge goes in relation to the front and back edge of the routed hole. I assume that it doesn’t go hard against the front edge, to allow for upward bends as well as downward bends..?
Sideways string alignment not a problem, just the other thing..

I know the short answer is “Should’ve bought a more expensive body, with the holes drilled.” But what’s the longer answer?
 so if you fancy a reissue of a guitar they never made in a colour they never used then it probably isn't too overpriced.

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Comments

  • FatPeteFatPete Frets: 683
    I would measure from the inside edge of the neck pocket as there's room for variation in the size of the tremolo route. That measurement should be 173.05 mm.
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 72375
    The longer answer is that the correct position is dependent on the distance from, and alignment with, the neck, not the position in the rout. The range of adjustment on the saddles is not very great - the top E usually needs to be almost up against the pivot screw head, and the low E almost as far back as the spring will compress - so you really don't have a lot of room for error.

    That said, there *is* a normal position relative to the rout, which is that when the bridge is sitting flat on the body, the front face of the block should be *almost* - but not quite - touching the wall of the cavity on the pickup side. The thickness of a piece of cornflake packet would be about the right gap. You can probably use that as a guide, then check the position of the bridge relative to the frets.

    Bear in mind that the bridge will pull the screws slightly forward under string tension as well, so that gap will close - but the block must not touch the cavity wall or it will bind and cause tuning problems.

    You also need to have some means of drilling the screw holes truly vertical into the body, as well as in the right positions and accurate spacing - if they're misaligned or even slightly spaced differently from the holes in the bridge they can also make the bridge bind.

    Hope that doesn't sound too daunting!

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

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  • usedtobeusedtobe Frets: 3842
    Thanks guys. I found a measurement on (I think) a stew Mac page which suggests things are as they should be. I’ve got one of those drill stands coming, which will drill straighter than I would, and it’s a decent Wilkinson bridge, so I can get the holes in the right place. I think the measurements are available.. I have had the neck on, and lined things up.. I’m cautiously optimistic..
     so if you fancy a reissue of a guitar they never made in a colour they never used then it probably isn't too overpriced.

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