Les Paul rewire - Reusing switch & jack from PCB?

NCo

Well, once I fix it tomorrow (thanks to you) it won't be as pressing, but some other issues which make me want to me to replace the PCB are:

Gibson used 2 X 0.033uf caps. I could live with that on the bridge, but come on lads.
I use the tone/volume quite a bit and I'd be amazed if these are 500, I'm not getting the sweep I'm used to.
Push/Pull are located on volume knobs, for some odd reason?
Finally, using those 4 wires for out of phase is a lot better (for me) than the coil split.

With all of that, it seems a lot easier just binning the board.

ICBM

NCo said:

Well, once I fix it tomorrow (thanks to you) it won't be as pressing, but some other issues which make me want to me to replace the PCB are:

Gibson used 2 X 0.033uf caps. I could live with that on the bridge, but come on lads.
I use the tone/volume quite a bit and I'd be amazed if these are 500, I'm not getting the sweep I'm used to.
Push/Pull are located on volume knobs, for some odd reason?
Finally, using those 4 wires for out of phase is a lot better (for me) than the coil split.

With all of that, it seems a lot easier just binning the board.

Yes, if you want to change all that then you’re completely right. You can’t use those push-pulls for phase switching as they’re only SPST - you need a DPDT for that, CTS do them now.

In fact, if you’re going to do that then replace that grey cable with the traditional three braided cables as well, that will further improve the shielding. Basically a completely traditional vintage wiring loom except for a phase switch on a push-pull (I’d use the neck tone pot).

NCo

Is there any difference in shielding with braided wire?

Seems like an expensive and more complicated job compared to reusing the current wiring.

ICBM

NCo said:

Is there any difference in shielding with braided wire?

Seems like an expensive and more complicated job compared to reusing the current wiring.

Yes, the individual braided wires are noticeably better.

The biggest problem with the single multicore cable is that the individual cores are not adequately shielded at the ends - although you can fix that by fully shielding both the control and switch cavities with copper tape, or conductive paint (but I've never found that as effective). Even shortening the exposed cores to the minimum possible length - something Gibson are very lax at doing - helps.

Ideally you want the whole of the electrical system in the guitar completely enclosed in a shield, or as close to that as you can.