Tele Paul build

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Started a new build today. Not particularly adventurous, this one though!

This will be a flat top Les Paul, mahogany body and neck (I have half a blank left from my last build). Tele bridge, P90 neck and a strat middle pickup. LP Special DC style pickguard and tele control plate.

Basically a Fano SP6!

I have realised that I am a LP guy and 25.5" just doesn't work for me. This should give me a tele/stratty enough sound for my covers band. Obviously won't be quite right due to the different woods, shorter scale and set neck.

I'll be adding body binding and going to have a stab at LP custom-style block inlays (only done dots before). Fretboard will be gabon ebony because G&W can't ship rosewood to the UK any more and I like their preslotting service.

Finish wise it will be natural back (same as my last build) and painted top. Thinking drab olive green with black 4-ply pickguard.

Progress so far is flattening the neck blank and cutting the headstock angle. Now to wait for the truss rod and body wood to arrive before moving forward.


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Comments

  • SlopeSoarerSlopeSoarer Frets: 845
    edited April 2021
    Personally I wasn't aware of the Fano but I think the design looks very good, yours even more so as the body shape is right.

    Looking forward to seeing it progress
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  • DanielsguitarsDanielsguitars Frets: 3297
    tFB Trader
    Did my one last year and it's one of my new Evo models, I'm the same with a fender fretscale, I just don't like it and play a LP style the most, I've been playing this the most tool



    www.danielsguitars.co.uk
    (formerly customkits)
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  • tanihhiavlttanihhiavlt Frets: 659
    I really admire that you guys draw this stuff out :) I am a total bodger in comparison.

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  • davrosdavros Frets: 1347
    The drawing was mostly to check I could fit a strat pickup in the middle without the rout going outside the pickguard line!

    @Danielsguitars, I saw your posts, and they may have subconsciously influenced me!! That looks awesome!

    I think my bridge need to move down a bit, I used the StewMac position for this scale, but it doesnt look right to me.
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  • DanielsguitarsDanielsguitars Frets: 3297
    tFB Trader
    davros said:
    The drawing was mostly to check I could fit a strat pickup in the middle without the rout going outside the pickguard line!

    @Danielsguitars, I saw your posts, and they may have subconsciously influenced me!! That looks awesome!

    I think my bridge need to move down a bit, I used the StewMac position for this scale, but it doesnt look right to me.
    You've got to work round where that bridge goes first, obviously I build using this scale and body alot so I know where it'll roughly go already, everything gets planned round that.

    obviously you need to make templates for all the different routes needed, be careful with the tele bridge route, it needs to be tight or you'll see the route on the edges and make sure it's bang in in the centre line

    Good luck I'll be watching
    www.danielsguitars.co.uk
    (formerly customkits)
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  • davrosdavros Frets: 1347
    Yeah, it largely depends on how far the saddles want to end up from the back of the bridge. Teles can have a lot of adjustment but might affect the bridge position sound if they're a long way forward.

    I dont plan to route the pickups or drill the bridge until the neck is glued, so should be able to get it well aligned.
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  • DanielsguitarsDanielsguitars Frets: 3297
    tFB Trader
    davros said:
    Yeah, it largely depends on how far the saddles want to end up from the back of the bridge. Teles can have a lot of adjustment but might affect the bridge position sound if they're a long way forward.

    I dont plan to route the pickups or drill the bridge until the neck is glued, so should be able to get it well aligned.
    That's the way I do it, work around the neck 
    www.danielsguitars.co.uk
    (formerly customkits)
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  • davrosdavros Frets: 1347
    Had my body wood and a nice ebony fingerboard arrive today from G&W. Decided to get some block inlays too but I'm not sure - what do you think?


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  • SteveRobinsonSteveRobinson Frets: 7050
    tFB Trader
    I'm not overly fond of the texture of the plastic, real pearl would look classier I think.
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  • DanielsguitarsDanielsguitars Frets: 3297
    tFB Trader
    I'm not overly fond of the texture of the plastic, real pearl would look classier I think.
    It's that pattern on the plastic I'm not keen on, I made my own in the end from Rothko sheet, it came out nice too
    www.danielsguitars.co.uk
    (formerly customkits)
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  • davrosdavros Frets: 1347
    Yeah, they look naff to me too. MOP seems to be upwards of 40 quid, so I may stick with dots although I would like to use this build to have a go at inlays. Blocks would go nice with the ebony board too.
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  • davrosdavros Frets: 1347
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  • WezVWezV Frets: 16736
    edited April 2021
    yeah, not a fan of bobbly pearloid.   I do have some in one of my builds,  its fine i guess, but not my preference.

    You can get some pearl block from china too... it will be lower grade pearl, but not too bad.  better than plastic (note its 9 pieces on this listing)
    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Guitar-Inlay-Material-White-Mother-of-Pearl-Shell-for-Fingerboard-Fretboard/153045584470

    if you want the really pretty pearl, pay smallwonder.  Its more expensive, but you wouldn't regret it.  they also have the decent plastic ones too
    http://www.smallwonder-music.co.uk/shop/Fretboard-Inlay-Sets/Block-Inlay-Sets/p-114-430/





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  • davrosdavros Frets: 1347
    I was looking at the chinese ones but they come in sets of 9 not 10!  :s
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  • WezVWezV Frets: 16736
    davros said:
    I was looking at the chinese ones but they come in sets of 9 not 10!  :s
    Pay attention to thickness too.    I have used some and it's nice enough.  Didn't take too long to arrive either.  2 sets is still cheaper than anywhere else and you can pick the best bits to use
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  • WezVWezV Frets: 16736
    i can probably get some pics comparing the chinese stuff to the smallwonder stuff in a bit if its helpful.  I have both here
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  • WezVWezV Frets: 16736


    Chinese first fret block inlay on the left, primo blank from smallwonder in the right.

    In the flesh the small wonder has a lot more colours reflecting back at you.  It's stunning and worth every penny.... but the Chinese stuff is still nice, and 1/10th the price.  
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  • SteveRobinsonSteveRobinson Frets: 7050
    edited April 2021 tFB Trader
    I always reckon that if you are putting a lot of effort into a build then use the best materials you can afford. Using something you're not 100% happy with will always irritate you in the future.
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  • WezVWezV Frets: 16736
    I always reckon that if you are putting a lot of effort into a build then use the best materials you can afford. Using something you're not 100% happy with will always irritate you in the future.
    Yeah, but you have to factor in budget and diminishing returns at some point.

    I used the Chinese ebay  pearl blocks on my recent DC build because they were going under tinted lacquer anyway.... why pay 10 times the price for extra colour variation and chatayoncy  that will just be lost under the lacquer.


    That bubbly pearloid is odd though. 
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  • DanielsguitarsDanielsguitars Frets: 3297
    tFB Trader
    I'll have to try the Chinese one's Wez, I do use small wonder for odd bits and definitely get sets made up if it was something really custom.
    www.danielsguitars.co.uk
    (formerly customkits)
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