Adding a strap button to an acoustic...

Cirrus

I'd like to add a strap button to the neck heel of my Martin DM, in the same position as this photo rather than back at the flat base like some acoustics have.



Are there any pitfalls/ risks I need to watch out for, before I crack out the electric drill?

digitalkettle

Masking tape...measure twice...measure again...use a pilot drill bit...mark your drill bits for sensible depth...drill 90 degrees to the contour of the surface...spare pair of hands?

Do you need any measurements from one or two of us?

I've done it on a couple of acoustics now...one's an OM.

spaceman_inorbit

^like what he said, I've done exactly this to my Maton.

ICBM

Cirrus said:

I'd like to add a strap button to the neck heel of my Martin DM, in the same position as this photo rather than back at the flat base like some acoustics have.

Are there any pitfalls/ risks I need to watch out for, before I crack out the electric drill?

Yes. *Most* important!

Check there aren't any metal bolts in the neck heel. I don't think there are on a Martin, but I'm not certain about the lower-end models. If so, they may be covered by a label on the inside of the neck block.

You really, really don't want to drill a hole and hit a bolt close enough to the surface that you can't get the button screw in deep enough, and then can't move the button anywhere else without leaving an ugly hole.

There is a reason I know that.

Tannin

Alternatively, just wait. Before long you will be of an age where you won't really want to play standing up anyway.

TINMAN82

Tannin said:

Alternatively, just wait. Before long you will be of an age where you won't really want to play standing up anyway.

Definitely something to be said for this. Bonamassa and Clapton both play their acoustic sets seated. James Taylor plays seated too.

mart

ICBM said:

Cirrus said:

I'd like to add a strap button to the neck heel of my Martin DM, in the same position as this photo rather than back at the flat base like some acoustics have.

Are there any pitfalls/ risks I need to watch out for, before I crack out the electric drill?

Yes. *Most* important!

Check there aren't any metal bolts in the neck heel. I don't think there are on a Martin, but I'm not certain about the lower-end models. If so, they may be covered by a label on the inside of the neck block.

You really, really don't want to drill a hole and hit a bolt close enough to the surface that you can't get the button screw in deep enough, and then can't move the button anywhere else without leaving an ugly hole.

There is a reason I know that.

I'm pretty sure there is a bolt on the DM range - covered by a wooden plate, not a paper label.
This isn't a DM, but I'm pretty sure this is the raised plate that covers a bolt:
https://i.imgur.com/urNorr3.jpg

ICBM

mart said:

I'm pretty sure there is a bolt on the DM range - covered by a wooden plate, not a paper label.

You're correct... I thought I'd remembered something about these.



So you're going to need to work out where the bolt is - it should be possible to make a fairly accurate guess both from that video and by measuring the distance from the back of the guitar to the middle of the wooden plate inside - I *think* it looks like about an inch and a half up, but check on your own guitar.

If the position you want to drill the button hole is even remotely possibly in the same place you want to move it either down or up on the heel.


(By the way, I made the mistake on a Seagull, about thirty years ago... I fixed it by drilling the hole out larger and gluing a metal threaded insert into the neck with high-strength epoxy, then attaching the strap button with a machine screw. All neat and covered by the felt washer, but it was a massively stressful unnecessary complication to what should have been a 5-minute job!)

jellyroll

My own tuppenny advice...use decent screws. I used the screws that came with the strap button (can't remember the make) and the screw head shredded half way in. Couldn't turn the screw to get it properly in or to get it out. 

digitalkettle

jellyroll said:

My own tuppenny advice...use decent screws. I used the screws that came with the strap button (can't remember the make) and the screw head shredded half way in. Couldn't turn the screw to get it properly in or to get it out. 

This is proper 'sucking eggs' stuff but I'll add: use the correct flavour of screwdriver. Although, nothing will help you if the screw is made from monkey metal: I've sheared the head off bad screws in the past ;-/

drofluf

I asked a similar question a few years back and was also advised to smear some candle was onto the screw threads so it went in more easily. 

Cirrus

Thanks all. Yeah, I was wondering about the bolt. Annoyingly it's just one and pretty much bang on where I worked out I needed to put it to have the centre of gravity on the resulting line between the two strap buttons. I don't like the base of the heel position because on acoustics where it's there, the guitar wants to tip forward.

Might just wait until I'm too old to want to stand up before giving up on the plan.

BillDL

jellyroll said:

My own tuppenny advice...use decent screws. I used the screws that came with the strap button (can't remember the make) and the screw head shredded half way in. Couldn't turn the screw to get it properly in or to get it out. 

Very true.  Even with a correct diameter hole for the screw so that only the sharp threads cut into the wood I always coat the screw threads in candle wax, soap, or lip salve.  There's nothing worse than chewing up the screw slot with the screw half way in (and out), or snapping the head off a small soft metal screw as used for tuning heads.  I have just finished boring out a broken truss rod cover screw, plugging then refinishing over the hole to drill it again to the proper diameter.

ICBM

jellyroll said:

My own tuppenny advice...use decent screws. I used the screws that came with the strap button (can't remember the make) and the screw head shredded half way in. Couldn't turn the screw to get it properly in or to get it out. 

They're often too small as well, both in diameter and length. When you consider the damage that could occur if it pulls out of the wood or snaps off, you want something a bit bigger. I regard about 4mm diameter and 20mm into the wood as a safe minimum.

Cirrus said:

Yeah, I was wondering about the bolt. Annoyingly it's just one and pretty much bang on where I worked out I needed to put it to have the centre of gravity on the resulting line between the two strap buttons. I don't like the base of the heel position because on acoustics where it's there, the guitar wants to tip forward.

Surprisingly, further up towards the fingerboard works very well - the strap still comes round the curve of the heel in almost the same place, and it supports the guitar better.

If you really think that's likely to interfere with your hand position, just below the bolt is best. As long as it's not right at the bottom of the heel it won't tip the guitar forward much.

I really detest the back of the heel position too - the only advantage of it is that you can remove it fairly invisibly by replacing the heel cap when you want to put it in the right place...

bertie

TINMAN82 said:

Tannin said:

Alternatively, just wait. Before long you will be of an age where you won't really want to play standing up anyway.

Definitely something to be said for this. Bonamassa and Clapton both play their acoustic sets seated. James Taylor plays seated too.

Im in good company then       

BigPaulie

Just put the strap around the headstock. It's way cooler.

Just ask yourself this question: do I want to look like Johnny Cash or Ed Sheeran?

BigPaulie

jellyroll said:

My own tuppenny advice...use decent screws. I used the screws that came with the strap button (can't remember the make) and the screw head shredded half way in. Couldn't turn the screw to get it properly in or to get it out. 

No pilot hole I take it?

Silly, silly mistake...