Slotted pins vs slotted bridge - would you, have you?

Haych

I happened across this vid and as it was only a few minutes decided to watch.  I don't know the channel but it seems like the guy is a competent builder as well as a player.

He argues that using solid pins and slotting the bridge is better for tone than the usual slotted pins than most makers use.

The before/after audio "proof" is quite convincing.

Anyone have any thoughts?  Anyone tried it even?

stickyfiddle

This popped up in my recommendations and I thought it was interesting. I haven't modded anything but my Bourgeois has solid pins & slotted bridge and sounds way better than my Martin which is slotted pins. I can't remember what my Atkin has - will check! 

Tannin

And I get better tone if I roll my right sleeve up.

Still, no reason not to do it that  way. It is more logical really, and less prone to stringing-up mistakes, so why not?

Soupman

Not sure I could hear any difference (just listening on a phone). 
The break angle was definitely an improvement though. 
Neither relevant to me as both my main guitars are string through bridge (Lowden & Flambeau). No doubt they have their own specific problems!
  

earwighoney

Haych said:

He argues that using solid pins and slotting the bridge is better for tone than the usual slotted pins than most makers use.

I can't comment on whether it improves the tone, but I had it done on one of my acoustics as there had been a bit of damage to the bridge plate and the unslotted pins weren't holding.  The luthier slotted the bridge and put in unslotted bridge pins in.

I've read from a few sources that a slotted bridge with unslotted pins can be better for the bridge plate. 

Timcito

I always liked Ovations for their take - no bloody pins at all!   

BillDL

Anything that holds the ball on the string up tightly and as "straight" as possible to the bridge plate is going to give better transfer of vibrations to the soundboard than a lop-sided ball that doesn't make full contact.  Whether that increased transfer of vibration will make a particular guitar sound "better" is subjective though.  It might make a nice mellow sounding guitar a bit brighter and louder, and that may not be a "better" sound.  I would tend to think that the additional contact area of the string in and over the edge of a carefully slotted bridge pin hole will increase the transfer of vibrations between the string and wood and create slightly more amplitude on the soundboard.

In general the ball end of the string is going to seat itself more consistently up against the bridge plate where an unlotted pin is used, and there will be a bit less wear and tear on the wood there than the more "random" way the ball sits when a slotted pin is used.

lincolnblue

 Really interesting and makes sense when you think about it. To my ears there was quite a noticeable difference. I don't have slotted bridge on my guitars but my Breedlove doesn't have pins at all - the strings go through the bridge. 

Littlejonny

Really interested in this, but do you need to buy the special saw, and in fact a different thickness saw for each string? So 6 x $15?

BillDL

I made a saw for this purpose from a junior hacksaw blade.  I flattened the set of the teeth and ground it down along the "back" for a few inches so it fits down into the hole.  This does fine for the narrower strings, being a very thin blade.  I did the same with an electric jigsaw blade with very fine teeth for the thicker strings.  A fine rat-tailed file can be used to smooth out the grooves.  Very often you don't need expensive tools if you have the means to adapt everyday items into useful and free ones.  Doing this for the first time I would recommend doing it on a cheaper guitar to get the feel of it before attacking an expensive one.

Littlejonny

BillDL said:

I made a saw for this purpose from a junior hacksaw blade.  I flattened the set of the teeth and ground it down along the "back" for a few inches so it fits down into the hole.  This does fine for the narrower strings, being a very thin blade.  I did the same with an electric jigsaw blade with very fine teeth for the thicker strings.  A fine rat-tailed file can be used to smooth out the grooves.  Very often you don't need expensive tools if you have the means to adapt everyday items into useful and free ones.  Doing this for the first time I would recommend doing it on a cheaper guitar to get the feel of it before attacking an expensive one.

Thanks that’s really helpful