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You mean Hz .
Higher tuning usually gives a slightly brighter, zingier tone. It will also marginally increase the string tension, which will pull the bridge up and the neck forward a tiny bit, which should reduce fret buzz (even if it was imperceptible before, there is usually some when the action is low) and open up the tone and volume slightly.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
I'm not sure I've ever actually seen millihertz used as a unit though.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
Some guitars are very sensitive to tension. All the ones I've owned work fine with 11s, but can't do drop tunings with them, 11s seem to be the limit for most guitars. Hence I tune up a semitone for DADGAD with 11s
Same applies the other way. I have a tenor guitar that sounds horrible and shrill with the recommended gauge and tuning, I use thinner strings instead and it sounds lovely
It's all to do with the choice of bracing and the thickness of the top. Most luthiers expect and design for 11s, 12s or 13s.
Goodall even state on the label which gauge is recommended
I use what used to be called "Heavy bottom 9s" on electric, perhaps you could try the same idea.
Basically they allow bending of the top 3 strings same as 9s, but the bottom 3 strings are 10s, so a tighter sound on the bass.
On an acoustic I'd say try a set of 11s, with the top 2 strings replaced with the top 2 from a set of 10s. (i.e. 10 and 14)
Typically...
10s: 10, 14, 23, 30, 39, 47
11s: 11, 15, 22, 32, 42, 52
12s: 12, 16, 24, 32, 42, 53 (or sometimes 54)
The oddities you should notice are that the G in a set of 11s is actually *lighter* than in a set of 10s, and that the D and A strings are exactly the same gauges as a set of 12s. I don't know why they've come to be like that.
The reason I like 11s is actually because they have the 'heft' of 12s on the bottom strings, but the easier playability on the top ones. Even then, the G can seem too light - when I had two electro-acoustics where I used 10s on one and 11s on the other, I used to swap the G strings. Now I use Newtones and specify a 23-gauge G, but they allow you to choose your own set entirely if you want.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein