Always ahead of the curve, I’ve bought an HX Stomp…

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…Black Friday deal from GuitarGuitar. I’ve had a hankering for ages, and this seemed like a good deal even compared to some used prices. 

Anyway, quick question….what cable(s) do I need to buy to be able to run my drive pedals in the loop? 
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  • Depends on how you want to configure them.  For basic effects loop you can use your normal patch cables.  

    But if you want to run in stereo or have different drives on left / right you will need a stereo split cable (I think that is for the return path). 


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  • LewyLewy Frets: 4427
    paulcaye said:
    Depends on how you want to configure them.  For basic effects loop you can use your normal patch cables.  

    But if you want to run in stereo or have different drives on left / right you will need a stereo split cable (I think that is for the return path). 


    Oh no I just want to be able to stick a favourite drive or two into the loop, no stereo stuff :)

    Thanks!
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  • @Lewy to be honest, it makes more sense to keep drives up in front of the Hx stomp, using the loop almost doubles your latency in this case, and chances are you're most often going to want drives at the start of your signal chain anyway?
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  • LewyLewy Frets: 4427
    JohnCordy said:
    @Lewy to be honest, it makes more sense to keep drives up in front of the Hx stomp, using the loop almost doubles your latency in this case, and chances are you're most often going to want drives at the start of your signal chain anyway?
    Thanks for that @JohnCordy. I was mainly thinking about it for something like my Revival Drive or other Amp-in-a-box where it might be nice to try some the the HX drive pedals into the front of it. But latency sounds unappealing and I’m almost certainly over complicating things. Just because you can doesn’t mean you should etc.
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  • @Lewy ah in that particular use case that would make sense then! Worth experimenting with! I'd just use two patch cables in that example!
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  • ewalewal Frets: 2678
    I've got a couple of drives in the effects loop of my Stomp XL. I've never noticed any latency.
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  • LewyLewy Frets: 4427
    Ah this is perfect. Thanks!
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  • NickBNickB Frets: 281
    edited November 2023
    Lewy said:
    …Black Friday deal from GuitarGuitar. I’ve had a hankering for ages, and this seemed like a good deal even compared to some used prices. 

    Anyway, quick question….what cable(s) do I need to buy to be able to run my drive pedals in the loop? 
    Get a jet pedals HX Micro to expand the Stomps capabilities. Game changer as it’s literally plug and play with no midi programming. I had a Morningstar MC6 and this is way easier to use. Currently 20% off https://jetpedals.com/products/black-jet-micro?variant=44583272841403
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  • ewalewal Frets: 2678
    See other thread with Stomp XL sale link. If you need extra footswitches, it's the better solution.
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  • LewyLewy Frets: 4427
    Early explorations have been very positive. Have got the hang of the main functions and come up with some initial presets I like. Have tried it through my Headrush FRFR-108 and through SD Powerstage 170 into my Mesa Thiele (EV) cab (with cab sim off) and vastly prefer the latter, which I was expecting. Very cool. Now I just have to avoid it becoming a massive rabbit hole of tweaking and distraction!
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  • fretmeisterfretmeister Frets: 24996
    When you use it with a FRFR, learn to use the High and Low Cuts (as our FB thing the other day)

    Using them will give a more realistic speaker tone. I'd suggest low cut at about 100hz and the high cut at say 7Khz and tweak from there.

    A real guitar speaker does that automatically / mechanically. A modeller with FRFR can produce too much low and really highs leading to boom and to a nasty top end sizzle. The cuts sort that out.

    I’m so bored I might as well be listening to Pink Floyd


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  • LewyLewy Frets: 4427
    When you use it with a FRFR, learn to use the High and Low Cuts (as our FB thing the other day)

    Using them will give a more realistic speaker tone. I'd suggest low cut at about 100hz and the high cut at say 7Khz and tweak from there.

    A real guitar speaker does that automatically / mechanically. A modeller with FRFR can produce too much low and really highs leading to boom and to a nasty top end sizzle. The cuts sort that out.
    Got it...will experiment!  
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  • brucegillbrucegill Frets: 726
    edited November 2023
    Lewy said:
    Early explorations have been very positive. Have got the hang of the main functions and come up with some initial presets I like. Have tried it through my Headrush FRFR-108 and through SD Powerstage 170 into my Mesa Thiele (EV) cab (with cab sim off) and vastly prefer the latter, which I was expecting. Very cool. Now I just have to avoid it becoming a massive rabbit hole of tweaking and distraction!
    How’s the SD Powerstage? Is the fan noisy in the 170?
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  • LewyLewy Frets: 4427
    brucegill said:
    Lewy said:
    Early explorations have been very positive. Have got the hang of the main functions and come up with some initial presets I like. Have tried it through my Headrush FRFR-108 and through SD Powerstage 170 into my Mesa Thiele (EV) cab (with cab sim off) and vastly prefer the latter, which I was expecting. Very cool. Now I just have to avoid it becoming a massive rabbit hole of tweaking and distraction!
    How’s the SD Powerstage? Is the fan noisy in the 170?
    I love the Powerstage. You can hear the fan in an otherwise silent room but not when you're playing, even very quitely. Functionally it just does it's job - you don't want it to bring too much to the party really. The 3 band EQ is very usable. 
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  • LewyLewy Frets: 4427
    When you use it with a FRFR, learn to use the High and Low Cuts (as our FB thing the other day)

    Using them will give a more realistic speaker tone. I'd suggest low cut at about 100hz and the high cut at say 7Khz and tweak from there.

    A real guitar speaker does that automatically / mechanically. A modeller with FRFR can produce too much low and really highs leading to boom and to a nasty top end sizzle. The cuts sort that out.
    Ok this made a very big difference. I still prefer the sound of the real cab (and no cab on Stomp) but now when playing through FRFR it sounds much better. I’d say the difference in enjoyment now is just down to the difference between real amp in room and mic’d up amp sound - it’s not like dealing with two totally different tones. Also came across @JohnCordy ‘s excellent vids on this very subject which cleared a lot of stuff up. 
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  • When you use it with a FRFR, learn to use the High and Low Cuts (as our FB thing the other day)

    Using them will give a more realistic speaker tone. I'd suggest low cut at about 100hz and the high cut at say 7Khz and tweak from there.

    A real guitar speaker does that automatically / mechanically. A modeller with FRFR can produce too much low and really highs leading to boom and to a nasty top end sizzle. The cuts sort that out.
    Hey - do I do this in global settings? I use mine through a FRFR powered cab - I have noticed a bit of fizz...
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  • LewyLewy Frets: 4427
    When you use it with a FRFR, learn to use the High and Low Cuts (as our FB thing the other day)

    Using them will give a more realistic speaker tone. I'd suggest low cut at about 100hz and the high cut at say 7Khz and tweak from there.

    A real guitar speaker does that automatically / mechanically. A modeller with FRFR can produce too much low and really highs leading to boom and to a nasty top end sizzle. The cuts sort that out.
    Hey - do I do this in global settings? I use mine through a FRFR powered cab - I have noticed a bit of fizz...
    In the Cab block using the low and high cuts 
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  • fretmeisterfretmeister Frets: 24996
    Either in the cab block, or you can out in another separate EQ block that just does the cuts.

    I’m so bored I might as well be listening to Pink Floyd


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