What nylon strings to try

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mikewmikew Frets: 16
Howdy folks
Any advice about what nylon strings to try on a Furch GNc4 SR? I only really ever play steel string but have had this for a while and want to give it a go. I imagine they're the original strings and about 3 years old. It's a pretty mint looking box so can't imagine its been played much at all. Strings sound dull and whilst I have an opinion on steel strings I have none for nylon. They're also a bit of a fag to change in comparison. Any pointers or suggestions??
Thanks
Mike
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Comments

  • DavidRDavidR Frets: 744
    edited January 7
    There's a wide variety of Classical strings and really you just have to experiment and see what suits.

    fwiw, my favourites are SAVAREZ New Cristal Classic 540CR. But haven't been playing classical so much in last 5y and there will be new strings developed in that time.

    Firms I tried as well as Savarez (a good starting point), gallistrings, D'Addario, Dean Markley.

    Carbon strings worth a try but remember the trebles are more slippery and need more tying on.

    Tying on good fun but more fiddly than other guitar types and worth learning to do well.

    Bridge should look like this....

    How to Change Strings on a Classical Guitar

    and headstock should look like this.....


    Review Lowden WL-35 Jazz Nylon-Stringed Guitar is Sonically Balanced and  Inviting to Play  Acoustic Guitar

    Tricks with headstock tying on. Initial locking - all you need to do is pull back string at first turn around tuner roller around string coming out of hole so there's a 'locking angle'. You see people doing all sorts of weird ties and twists apart from this and you just don't need to. Make sure the 1st and 6th strings aren't touching the wood of the headstock slot after they come off the roller. This, on some guitars depending how they've been cut, means wrapping the string around the inner end of the roller not the outer in order to accomplish. I suspect the guy in the picture might have this problem. It does make a difference. Every little aspect of classicals will affect tone. Generally, if you alter anything on a classical it will affect tone!

    Take great care when restringing not to mark the wood anywhere with bass string scratches and plyers. It's easily done and I've seen ruined classicals due to careless restrings. Cut the string ends short; if they're properly tied on they're not going to slip. Do one string at a time rather than taking all the strings off. Classicals don't like being detensioned. Other types of guitars that's not so important.

    Trial and error and practice I'm afraid @mikew - and you will get that! - classicals need restringing every week or three to maintain the nicest string tone. Most are quite dull after a month of moderate playing although again that will vary between string sets.

    Ooh, that's another thing, keen classical players often try half sets; so they'll have the three trebles (all nylon) from one set and the three base strings (wound) from another. Such fun!

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  • trevAtrevA Frets: 42
    There's also "guitar beads" available that make changing strings a bit easier. I'd use nylon strings around 100hours of practice before I bother changing them but you can usually tell when they're needing to be changed.

    Another difference is that new strings won't stay in tune for very long for a few days as they need to stretch but they do settle down and become stable.

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/Guitar-Beads-Dark-Wood-Pattern/dp/B0BCX28WWN/ref=asc_df_B0BCX28WWN/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=641695888762&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1365643683682009305&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1007104&hvtargid=pla-1967622225029&psc=1&mcid=6b38d2d5740934d49177723c60453efc
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  • DavidRDavidR Frets: 744
    Yes. With qualification that classicals are generally more sensitive to temp and humidity though. I used to play in a classical ensemble performing in theatres, churches, village halls. We would tune up at the start and then at least once more throughout the concert. Heaven knows how people managed before electric tuners! Classicals are not as stable as acoustics at holding tuning because the build is lighter.
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  • jw_H-535jw_H-535 Frets: 12
    Savarez or Pro Artes were my choice for recital strings. Pro artes I found had more projection and clarity perfect for modern classical. Savarez had a darker and more gutty sound but where very apt for baroque, some romantic and true classical. 
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  • GreatapeGreatape Frets: 3553
    I'm playing bossa rather than classical on a Taylor, but I like the d'addario carbon nylon hard tensions. Also have used Savarez (Alliance?) 
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  • Andyjr1515Andyjr1515 Frets: 3127
    As a largely steel string player myself, I like the mixed set that Savarez sell - the 500ARJ Corum Alliance Red/Blue set.

    In it, the top three strings are normal tension and the bass three strings are high tension.  I find it gives a marked bass enhancement without the more glassy trebles that their high-tension treble strings tend towards.  Easier to play too! 
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  • GTCGTC Frets: 263
    I am a great fan of Knobloch strings - and I've yet to find any conventionally built classical that can't be significantly improved with them. You can find them at the London Guitar Studio.

    The Furch GNC4, unlike many other crossover guitars from predominately steel strung makers, is built more or less like a standard classical with regard to the top and bracing and is a fine instrument. I've got one (a left-hander) but still have the original strings fitted.

    For heavier-built crossovers from people like Taylor, I'd probably go for something like the Savarez Corum Alliance which I've found has a sharper tone which helps compensate for the heavier build.
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  • mikewmikew Frets: 16
    That’s interesting re the build. 
    I will feedback once the experiment is over. Thanks for all the replies. 
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  • TimcitoTimcito Frets: 782
    I've had good results also with La Bella 2001s, Royal Classics, Augustine, and Hannabach.  
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