Cheap small drill (around £20) strong enough to drill holes for pickguard in guitar body?

JamesC01

I asked this question not too long ago, but I wanted to be more specific. I really want something fairly small, but strong enough to drill holes in the guitar body for the pickguard. These are some of the ones I've come across myself, or been recommended:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Amtech-F0300-Hand-Drill-2-Piece/dp/B0047TPJUG/ref=sr_1_5?crid=36OG69ADPQKAT&keywords=hand+drill&qid=1706293925&sprefix=hand+dri%2Caps%2C83&sr=8-5

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Flintronic-Electric-Screwdriver-Cordless-Accessories/dp/B08DHSGTP7/ref=sr_1_38?crid=36OG69ADPQKAT&keywords=hand+drill&qid=1706293925&sprefix=hand+dri%2Caps%2C83&sr=8-38

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Electric-0-8-3-0mm-Plastic-Polymer-Keychain/dp/B09QBR3N79/ref=sr_1_48?crid=36OG69ADPQKAT&keywords=hand+drill&qid=1706293925&sprefix=hand+dri%2Caps%2C83&sr=8-48

Which one (if any) of those options do you think would be good enough? Or am I better of going with something like this:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Terratek%C2%AE-Cordless-Lithium-Ion-Screwdriver-Accessory/dp/B00I506718/

elstoof

Any of those will be able to drill the required 1.5mm holes in a guitar body. The last one will be able to a bit more besides, like screwing in the screws you’ve drilled holes for. 

The hand drill is actually a fairly difficult tool to use well, it takes a lot of practice to drill straight and not end up with a cone shaped hole twice the size of the drill bit 

BillDL

If the body wood is soft like poplar, alder, basswood, etc, I rarely drill pilot holes for scratchplate screws these days.  I just mark them accurately with a sharp ended but accutely angled awl so the marked holes are centred in the scratchplate's screw holes, then use a small conical hand-held countersink grinding bit to grind the lacquer around the holes to about 3mm diameter so it doesn't crack or splinter, then I use a thin hand-held twist gimlet (fine auger) with a long shallow taper on a 2mm shank to make the pilot holes.  Scratchplate screws are commonly 3mm diameter.  They only screw into the wood about 8 to 10mm of their 12mm length and and about 1/4 of the screw length at the tip is tapered down from 3mm diameter, so a 2mm gimlet with a long shallow taper creates a hole that's a good size for the screws to grip nicely without being too tight.  You could use a larger diameter drill bit hand-held and turned in reverse as a countersink if you don't have a conical grinding bit or metal countersink burr.  At a push you could use a sharp awl to push into softer wood to create pilot holes.  On harder body woods like maple caps, mahogany and ash, I still do things the "proper way" and drill a pilot hole using a small electric drill.

I have found that the Screwfix "Titan" own brand range of power tools (corded and cordless) are actually pretty good and you often get two batteries with the cordless ones, and I've bought power tools from Aldi that did the job perfectly well for the low prices and lasted a long time.  If you prefer using Amazon, then you are going to see a lot of power tools with names you have never heard of (eg. Fadakwalt, Tihook, Hychika, Werktough, Mylek) but made to resemble well known brands.  They may be just as good as larger more recognised brand names, but the only way to know is to read reviews or just buy one from a reputable Amazon vendor.  As elstoof suggested, I would agree that the last one you linked to is the best choice from your shortlist. 18v, fairly light and ergonomic looking, 2 year warranty, and will be handy for other DIY or guitar modding tasks.