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I've even added fall-away on just the upper frets on a few guitars, gradually tapering the height ftom the 12-15th fret and making the 21/22nd fairly low, to improve buzzing and choking
Some folks I know have had success with what seemed a bit extreme - 1 degree or even higher, with multiple shims.
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I'm not a fan of those full-pocket shims, but it shouldn't be the issue.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
If the action is then much lower then your nut is too high and you can afford to raise the bridge.
If it's fine until the 12th fret and then chokes out higher up it's more likely to be the bridge is too low rather than the truss rod too tight.
I'd suggest putting a capo on the first fret, raising the bridge until the choking stops, then tightening the truss rod until the action is as low as you want it without getting fret buzz at the lower frets. If that doesn't give you an acceptable action you've either got high spots on some frets or you've got a twisted neck
Many guitars have a re-sale value. Some you'll never want to sell.
Stockist of: Earvana & Graphtech nuts, Faber Tonepros & Gotoh hardware, Fatcat bridges. Highwood Saddles.
Pickups from BKP, Oil City & Monty's pickups.
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If you think the shim might be part of the problem, remove it and set the guitar up without, or with a thinner shim.
Don't spend a lot of money on a replacement neck until you're absolutely certain it's the cause, basically.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
If I replace the neck, it'll be one with a 10-16" radius, i.e. Warmoth.