It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!
Subscribe to our Patreon, and get image uploads with no ads on the site!
Base theme by DesignModo & ported to Powered by Vanilla by Chris Ireland, modified by the "theFB" team.
Comments
The last opamp in the Klon circuit does run at 17V or so from memory as the circuit has a 7660 chip which can raise the voltage and create a negative rail so that last opamp does have a lot of headroom.
Headroom is simply the room between the lowest signal and the highest you can go before the signal needs to be a higher voltage than the supply voltage. Imagine a man jumping up and down in a house. The signal strength is the height of the man. The height of the ceiling is the supply voltage. The gain is how high you tell him to jump. If he is 5 foot and the ceiling is 15 foot then he can only have a gain of x 3 before he hits his head
If I remember correctly the Klon cuts bass and pushes upper mids a bit. Perhaps your amp breaks up first in response to lower frequencies, so by the time it's breaking up with the Klon on it's actually quite a bit louder than with a clean boost. Also mids tend to sound loud.
My point was an analog audio circuit isn't like a DC lamp circuit. It needs a dual supply and the only way to get 2 swings from a single supply is to cut it in half and use the mid point as 0V ... 2 equal resistors operating as a voltage divider is the most used, and in my opinion should be drawn as part of the main circuit, not drawn separately and called a power supply like so many pedal schematics do as this voltage divider affects the input impedance.
King here, as Ive tried many many, is the Cornish NB3. Seems to increade your volume, without od the sound.
Now, I own the Echoline SIGNAL DRIVER, which is an EXACT klone of the NB3; ive compared em side by side.
And no, Im not on commission but for £99 this is a no brainer. See the discount link here;
https://www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/comment/3843108#Comment_3843108
I've always seen it as (in most pedals) the op-amp runs on single supply of 9v, and the signal is biased to 4.5v, so with a typical op-amp you end up with a signal up to 8v peak to peak.
If you run a voltage doubler in the pedal then you can either have the op-amp supply rails at about 9v and about -8.3v (because you typically lose 0.7v to the diode in the doubler circuit), or you have a single supply rail at about 17.3v and bias to half that. Then your maximum output signal is typically around 16v peak to peak.
No?
And none of it has anything to do with the original question!
Dave, no confusion on my part. I know exactly how to bias an opamp or tranny stage from a single supply. It's just you didn't like my use of the words "cut the supply in half" ... rather than create a voltage divider of half the supply rail
Thanks also, @Wazmeister . That's useful to know. Funnily enough, I probably lean to the opposite: boost pedals that push an amp into breakup sooner.
I'm still confused about what a high headroom boost is though. @ThorpyFX Heavy Water is marketed as such, but what are the benefits? Waz's assertion seems to be that means it will provide more of a volume boost and not push the amp into breakup so soon. But is that right?
And what effect do the quoted DB figures on pedals have? What's the advantage of having a 35DB boost over a 20DB one? I understand it will be louder, but does that mean more headroom etc. etc.
In my simple head, if you're running a clean amp and slam it with a boost, the clean sound will get louder to the point where the amp is receiving so much signal that it runs out of headroom and starts breaking up.
I'm still confused how DBs and boost headroom fits into this. And how different volumes and levels of breakup are achieved by different boosts.
firstly I describe headroom as the amount signal space you have before the pedal begins to distort itself. What this means with regards the heavy water is that it doesn’t distort itself until the very upper reaches of the boost knob. Until that point it just keeps on boosting the signal you put into it and making it louder in order to “hit” the front end of your valve amp harder. This essentially causes your amp to distort but without adding too much extra distortion to the mix.
How do you have the internal dip switches set?
I'm finding that using PAFs into my Keeley Katana Mini results in light breakup at a volume level that's not much higher than when the pedal's off. This is a good thing for home playing, but does it mean that the pedal is a low headroom boost and is distorting itself rather than pushing the amp into breakup?
And if I used the high headroom Heavy Water, would it be much louder when a) the amp started breaking up or the pedal started distorting itself at the end of the dial?
And where do dB's fit into it?
as for dBs… this is a logarithmic scale to describe sound pressure levels in this case.