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Comments
On a BadAss II (or good copy), the design defines the lowest possible adjustment of the bridge saddles. They might not go low enough. The only remedy would be to shim the neck pocket to compensate.
Having said that, I have a Fender Hi-Mass bridge on a Squier VM series PJ Bass. No issue whatsoever.
THINKS: Where are the fastening screw holes on the stock Squier bridge? These might not align with the holes in a replacement part.
The MIC Fender Hi-Mass bridge is chrome plated brass. It may actually reduce high frequency clarity.
It's available in a specific Squier mount so hopefully should be OK.
The greatest bass recordings were done with the BBOT.
I wouldn’t bother unless the existing bridge is faulty in some way.
https://soundcertified.com/speaker-ohms-calculator/
Change the strings from stock and get a fatter low B. Most 5 string sets are quite unbalanced in tension, with the G & D being much higher than the low B, silly really.
strings are also cheaper change than bridge
So many string companies seem to just make a thicker E rather than working out if that construction actually works for a B.
I do usually find that a stainless steel B works better than nickels, but a SS can be painfully bright to start with. either play it in or do the handcream thing.
D'addario 0.135 is a good choice - but very bright to start with.
DR High Beams - also very good.
Dunlops are good - ignore the "Super Bright" label on some of the options. They really are not!
https://soundcertified.com/speaker-ohms-calculator/