Is Upgrading a Bass Bridge Worth it?

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monquixotemonquixote Frets: 17829
edited May 1 in Bass tFB Trader
I have a very nice Squier 5 string Jazz bass I recently acquired.

I'm considering upgrading the bridge to a Badass style as it's not a super expensive thing to do and I hope it might have benefits for setup and tone. I'm especially looking at improving the B string clarity.

Anyone have opinions on if it's worth doing?
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Comments

  • FunkfingersFunkfingers Frets: 14714
    Measure how high the G and B saddles are raised above the baseplate of the stock bridge.

    On a BadAss II (or good copy), the design defines the lowest possible adjustment of the bridge saddles. They might not go low enough. The only remedy would be to shim the neck pocket to compensate.

    Having said that, I have a Fender Hi-Mass bridge on a Squier VM series PJ Bass. No issue whatsoever.

    THINKS: Where are the fastening screw holes on the stock Squier bridge? These might not align with the holes in a replacement part.

    The MIC Fender Hi-Mass bridge is chrome plated brass. It may actually reduce high frequency clarity.
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  • monquixotemonquixote Frets: 17829
    tFB Trader
    I was thinking about this one: https://hipshotproducts.com/products/5-string-kickass-bass-bridge

    It's available in a specific Squier mount so hopefully should be OK.
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  • fretmeisterfretmeister Frets: 24758
    I am unconvinced.

    The greatest bass recordings were done with the BBOT.

    I wouldn’t bother unless the existing bridge is faulty in some way. 
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  • stickyfiddlestickyfiddle Frets: 27536
    I am unconvinced.

    The greatest bass recordings were done with the BBOT.

    I wouldn’t bother unless the existing bridge is faulty in some way. 
    I'm 50/50 and would suggest it depends what you want from the bass. If you're into more modern sounds or really punchy Geddy/Miller type stuff and nothing else then a chunkier bridge can be a good thing. But if you want classic Motown or Zep then there's no need. 
    The Assumptions - UAE party band for all your rock & soul desires
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  • monquixotemonquixote Frets: 17829
    tFB Trader
    Two of my drivers are that I like a slightly more modern tone and hopefully a more solid B

    Also my experience of classic Vibe basses are the bridges are shitty pot metal.
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  • Winny_PoohWinny_Pooh Frets: 7853
    IMO a tighter B depends on the construction and neck stiffness. A bridge won't fix that unless you set the new bridge to be taller and erroneously think aha! it's better. 
    Change the strings from stock and get a fatter low B. Most 5 string sets are quite unbalanced in tension, with the G & D being much higher than the low B, silly really.
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  • LukeFRCLukeFRC Frets: 2
    IMO a tighter B depends on the construction and neck stiffness. A bridge won't fix that unless you set the new bridge to be taller and erroneously think aha! it's better. 
    Change the strings from stock and get a fatter low B. Most 5 string sets are quite unbalanced in tension, with the G & D being much higher than the low B, silly really.
    I was about to write pretty much what Winny Pooh just said…
    strings are also cheaper change than bridge
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  • fretmeisterfretmeister Frets: 24758
    IMO a tighter B depends on the construction and neck stiffness. A bridge won't fix that unless you set the new bridge to be taller and erroneously think aha! it's better. 
    Change the strings from stock and get a fatter low B. Most 5 string sets are quite unbalanced in tension, with the G & D being much higher than the low B, silly really.
    So much this.

    So many string companies seem to just make a thicker E rather than working out if that construction actually works for a B.

    I do usually find that a stainless steel B works better than nickels, but a SS can be painfully bright to start with. either play it in or do the handcream thing.

    D'addario 0.135 is a good choice - but very bright to start with.
    DR High Beams - also very good.

    Dunlops are good - ignore the "Super Bright" label on some of the options. They really are not! 


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  • monquixotemonquixote Frets: 17829
    tFB Trader
    I went for a set with a 135 rather than a 130 so I'll see if that helps.
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  • FunkfingersFunkfingers Frets: 14714
    I wouldn’t bother unless the existing bridge is faulty in some way. 
    Several times, I have "upgraded" from the vintage-style bridge to something of higher mass only to revert to stock because the basic stamped steel item sounded better. 

    Every bass could be different. Trial and error is the only approach.
    You say, atom bomb. I say, tin of corned beef.
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  • monquixotemonquixote Frets: 17829
    tFB Trader
    I changed it as I was having a few other bits done and the bass is now much better but it's impossible to say if it's the bridge, set up, different string gauge or lower pickups that are making the difference.
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