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Haaaaaa. Yeah that's what I thought when I hit the beach in Oz.
A longboard? No way, if I can drop in from 5' of vert and do a few 50:50's, smith grinds or an indy air, ollie blunt or a kickflip there must be nothing to it. So I got a competition board shorter than me. Big mistake. Spent the day trying not to drown and even ended up in some women's bra....many, many years ago. So thought sod that and went fishing instead.
You have to be fit, really fit and have the ability to hold your breath for 30 minutes. All respect to surfers, they are fit as people come.
Used to be good at talking the talk about Perranporth in the nineties and looking like a surfer though done the pub, but it was all a fraud I'm afraid.
The truth is that I hate water and I hate drowning even more. Surfers are a special breed.
Good luck, hope there is a good lifeguard on duty.
Starting out on a shorty is suicide though, but have a lol for it!
I surfed for about 20 years, the level of fitness and commitment it takes to make it to a decent level is ridiculous. You end up caring only about tide times, wind direction and low pressure weather systems. It's life consuming.