Les Paul problem: both pickups on all the time

richh

Can anybody make any suggestions please? As I move the pickup selector, there is no change in the sound.  When I tap the pickups with a screwdriver I can hear they are both active whichever way the pickup selector is set.  Any easy mods or checks I can do, such as squirt of Servisol on the pickup selector?

This is a standard twin humbucker, all sounds good, but just not the tonal variety it should produce.  I don't want to spend ages messing about with it, so if necessary will take in to a pro for repair, but I'm wondering if it may be an easy fix I can attempt myself?

Thanks for any suggestions folks!

melvynhiscock

Gibson or AN other?

John_P

Either some of the wring is shorting - could be too much insulation stripped back and they are touching, or the switch is broken.   

It's not a big job to rewire the switch or replace it but I'd have a look at he wiring first. 

richh

Not Gibson, this is a Heatley guitar, much sold and traded on this forum.  I'm loving it, but never thought there was much tonal difference between the bridge & neck pickup.  I'm wondering now if it has always been this way and I hadn't noticed!

I'll open up the back cavities and see if there is anything obvious.  I'm not too handy at soldering and the like, but just want to get it sorted.

richh

Ok, I've check the wiring to the 3 way toggle switch, and also the cavity where the tone and volume pots are, and it all looks correct, no dry joints or cables that could be shorting.  Maybe that points to the pickup selector itself?

ICBM

Sounds like it, if the wiring is definitely right.

Take the switch out far enough to see what happens to the contact leaves as you move the lever, if it's the open-frame type.

richh

Thanks @ICBM, it is the open-frame type, but unfortunately the wiring is very short so it is hard to get the switch out clear enough to see the wipers.  Also the main moving part of the switch came apart into several pieces.  I can see how they go back together, but it is awkward.  I always remember too late why I shouldn't do this stuff myself!

Thanks for all your help, I'll either get a local pro to do it, or maybe just order up a new switch.  If only the cabling was a bit longer...

richh

Okay, managed to pull a bit more wire through and re-assemble the switch.  It is now working in bridge & middle positions, so that is an improvement, until I can it properly sorted.  Thanks again for all the suggestions!

ICBM

richh said:

Thanks @ICBM, it is the open-frame type, but unfortunately the wiring is very short so it is hard to get the switch out clear enough to see the wipers.  Also the main moving part of the switch came apart into several pieces.  I can see how they go back together, but it is awkward.  I always remember too late why I shouldn't do this stuff myself!

Thanks for all your help, I'll either get a local pro to do it, or maybe just order up a new switch.  If only the cabling was a bit longer…

Sounds like it was a poor-quality switch anyway.

If you're going to replace it, get a Switchcraft only - all other makes are inferior and it isn't worth trying to save the small price difference.

You can give yourself more slack to work with if you undo the pots and drop them into the cavity so you can pull about another inch of wire up towards the switch, if you have to. Sometimes you need to solder little extensions on (with heatshrink to cover the joins) if you don't want to replace the whole loom.

streethawk

If you do decide to buy a switch give me a shout, I do them prewired with braided cable and plenty of length.

Will sort you a Fretboard discount out.