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"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
Then sand, paint. No need for primer, the old paint is a ready-made primer/sealer.
Panel Wipe is made for the job like this one On fleabay as well but brands are a bit of a lottery there.
Wipe on wet and wipe off with another cloth, Tesco's white kitchen towels don't leave lint but the pros use lint-free cloths sold for the purpose (look for "panel wipers" in that site).
And "tack rags" - slightly tacky cloths to take off sanding dust, and for a quick clean of fluff and whatnot just before painting. Gentle wipe, don't mash them into the surface.
In a pinch lighter fluid works but Panel Wipe is the boss.
(formerly miserneil)
What some places call poly sealer/grain filler, in particular that excitable "dirty little secret" page isn't the same as 'poly' paint, which elsewhere is called two-pack or 2k and the yanks call urethane, catalysed urethane, acrylic urethane etc etc. Too many damn names, but it's not the same animal as the filler/sealer.
Some sealers/fillers are rock hard and a proper bastard to remove. Done a couple of guitars that had sprayed sealer coatings almost like a hard shell. Good base for paint and cheap production (easy grain-fill & seal), but the wood won't show any wear this side of the apocalypse.
And others with a good grain filler & thin sealer that would age/relic up and look fine with nitro.
But I wouldn't be surprised if some companies actually do paint nitro onto actual 2k paint (or "poly"). Grain-fill, seal and/or clearcoat, then finish with nitro. 2k clear or primer makes a stable base, quick & easy to do final paint, the process could fit in with general production since it shares stages. Also suits some finishes like flake or heavy pearl. Several reasons it makes sense.
(formerly miserneil)