Complete newbie pedal build questions/help if possible

It's been years since I've attempted any sort of soldering on pedals (and previously it was only a few mods on existing layouts and an AB box), but yesterday I dug out an old BC108 silicon fuzz face kit I had previously made a hash of, and redid it completely.

I've been using this layout:

image

Now that I've got the board bit done, I've literally no idea where to solder all the left over leads. 
So far I've wired:
All 3 lugs on the fuzz pot as per the layout instructions
Volume lug 1 as per diagram
Volume lug 2 to the tip connector of the output jack
Input to the tip connector of the input jack
The ring connector of the input jack to the ring connector of the output jack
+9V wire to the +ve ring of the DC input jack

I have no idea where to connect the ground wire on the board, or where to connect lug 3 on the volume pot, or where to connect the centre negative connection from the DC input jack.

I'm also unsure which way round I should connect the transistors (CBE from top to bottom or EBC from top to bottom?)

Any help would be appreciated.
Robot Lords of Tokyo, SMILE TASTE KITTENS!
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Comments

  • randomhandclapsrandomhandclaps Frets: 20521
    edited January 2016

    OK, First things thing the volume pot is labelled wrong.  If you look at a pot from above with the tabs pointing towards you then from left to right will be 1,2,3.  in that instance than 1 should be grounded and 3 should be the output from the board.  Of course it is possible you got this right by having the pot orientated wrong to start with but if not the volume pot is going to work in reverse.

    Before I can answer the other questions, are you not including a footswitch of LED and if you are including a footswitch then with one?

    I am also going to hazard a guess that if you used BC108s then the R3 is a bit to high and value at 8.2K to bias within a good range, but it will still work and you may like it but it may be worth considering swapping that.

    With regards to transistor orientation, it you are using metal can BC108s they with have a small tab to denote the emitter.  The emitter on this layout will be the lowest on each transistor (so E4 and D6), and as such the triangle that the legs form should be pointing to the right of the board.

    My muse is not a horse and art is not a race.
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  • strtdvstrtdv Frets: 2473
    Initially, no LED and I'm going to hardwire it to be on all the time then add a DPDT switch later
    Robot Lords of Tokyo, SMILE TASTE KITTENS!
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  • See above post because I have added the transistor orientation.

    OK, so basically it looks like all you need to do is connect up the ground.  Simply all your ground and the enclosure need to be in contact.  If you are use metal jacks then this is made far simpler by connecting all the grounds - So board ground, volume pot ground and a ground from the DC socket.

    If you want to make it neater, as you have room on the bottom row of your board (which is acting as a ground rail) you could solder all the grounds into the spare holes here. 


    My muse is not a horse and art is not a race.
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  • strtdvstrtdv Frets: 2473
    edited January 2016
    Thanks for the help @randomhandclaps. I've also noticed in my stupidity I have no idea which way round the electrolytic caps go
    Robot Lords of Tokyo, SMILE TASTE KITTENS!
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  • randomhandclapsrandomhandclaps Frets: 20521
    edited January 2016

    As in how to read it on the layout?

    If so then the negative side (shorter leg) is the side where the greyed out area is on the stripboard schematic you posted, although it can be really hard to read.  In this layout's case both Electros negatives face the top of the board and the positives the bottom.

    My muse is not a horse and art is not a race.
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  • SargeSarge Frets: 2429
    I think I've just bought this very same kit, bookmarked this one for future reference (desperate help)
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  • ecc83ecc83 Frets: 1642

    "With regards to transistor orientation, it you are using metal can BC108s they with have a small tab to denote the emitter."

    If you have a transistor of unknown pinout or polarity here's how to nail it...

    You need a mmeter with a diode test function (most do) and you need to make sure the + red probe is indeed a positive voltage (old Avos were the other way!) A resistor of about 100k and two or three croc leads.

    First connect the meter to any two wires. No reading, swap them. Still no reading? You have found the collector and the emitter but which is which?

    Connect the 100k R from + to the spare wire. Reading? If yes you have an NPN transistor, the + lead is the collector and - the emitter. No reading? Swap red and black and touch third again with R from +. Reading? As above.

    If still no joy try the resistor from the -ve lead and if you get a reading the transistor is PNP and the -ve lead is connected to the collector.

    It takes a HECK of a lot longer to type this out than to do it!

    Knackered now. Might do FET the morrow.

    Dave.

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  • RoelettiRoeletti Frets: 0
    edited October 2016
    A couple days ago i started this build. But i don't have an multimeter and i have no clue why the pedal isn't working. I know that all solder connections look very well. But you might be able to help me out. Can any state, really simple, where E,B and C go on the transistors? And which way the capacitors should face? And last but not least, if the off-board wiring diagram is use even works?

    I Hope u can help me out.


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  • A couple days ago i started this build. But i don't have an multimeter and i have no clue why the pedal isn't working. I know that all solder connections look very well. But you might be able to help me out. Can any state, really simple, where E,B and C go on the transistors? And which way the capacitors should face? And last but not least, if the off-board wiring diagram is use even works?

    I Hope u can help me out.


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  • Sorry, i'm really new on this website...and i can't get my pictures in the message......
     
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