NAD cheap and cheerful

SargeSarge Frets: 2429
image

Excuse the indoor phone pic.

E-Wave KS-5H and GC-110 cab.
5w, preamp has a 12AX7 and the power tube being an EL84
the cab has a 30w 10" Celestion Tube 10 so apparently pretty average or below, but fuck me it's loud and clear!

I wanted something for the bedroom and the Laney lc15 will go there and this probably get the main use, though I do need an attenuator for the loop, very touchy level and gain knobs go from naught to 100 so can't really get it as sensible as I need.


Anyone want to swap an attenuator for a digitech screamin' blues pedal?
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Comments

  • SargeSarge Frets: 2429
    A little research suggests I can just install an Lpad in the cab, could it be that simple?
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  • underdogunderdog Frets: 8334
    I used an Lpad with an Epi valve junior, it worked great. I housed it in a separate box so I could use it with other amps though.
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  • SargeSarge Frets: 2429
    Ok cool, so should I go for a higher wattage? the speaker is 30w, so say 100w will be fine?
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 72549
    Yes with that amp, but be careful with L-Pads. The standard "100W" ones you buy doesn't mean they will take 100W of electrical power, it means they can be used as the treble attenuator in a 100W music system, which was the original purpose. The actual electrical power they will take is more like about 20W I think, which also doesn't mean a cranked 20W electric guitar amp! A distorted amp can put out up to double the rated power.

    Or to cut a long story short, safe with a 10W amp or less, but any more may be pushing it.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

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  • SargeSarge Frets: 2429
    Oh so it's the amp's wattage not the speaker's?
    If I were to go this route, which would be best?
    thanks for the valuable info :-)
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 72549
    For that amp, the "100W" L-Pad will be plenty. Just don't run a much more powerful amp into the cab.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

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  • SargeSarge Frets: 2429
    Thanks very much @ICBM, much appreciated.
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  • ecc83ecc83 Frets: 1639

    A loop attenuator is beer into water to build.

    Surprised "our Rob " doesn't knock 'em out?

    Dave.

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  • SargeSarge Frets: 2429

    @ICBM do you have any of these 100w L-Pads to sell?
    I've been looking around and the suitable spec ones are either out of stock or in the USA (or very very pricey)
    or could you recommend somewhere to ghet one?

    cheers!
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 72549
    No, sorry. I've seen them on Ebay before but I don't know if there are any available just now.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

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  • SargeSarge Frets: 2429
    Ah no worries, I found one for £20 delivered with a facia.

    Thanks again for your help!
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  • SargeSarge Frets: 2429
    Well, stumbled at the first hurdle.
    Can't get rhe back if the bastard cab off!
    Tried levering it around the edges but it's sodding chipboard, about 1" thick.
    Fuck fucking fucked off
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 72549
    Sarge said:
    Well, stumbled at the first hurdle.
    Can't get rhe back if the bastard cab off!
    Tried levering it around the edges but it's sodding chipboard, about 1" thick.
    Fuck fucking fucked off
    Take out the jack plate and use the hole to pull the back off. If pulling by hand fails you may need to rig up some sort of jacking arrangement - it's not always easy but I've never had it fail.

    If you lay the cabinet face down, put two pieces of wood on the edges of the sides (so they're not on the back) and another strong crossbar on them, across the cab over the jack plate hole, you should then be able to get a G-clamp into the hole and tighten it towards the crossbar so it pulls the back off. Sometimes you have to leave it a while and re-tighten it if it's really stuck.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

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  • SargeSarge Frets: 2429
    23 hours later and I've prised it off, need a smoke!

    @ICBM may I trouble you for a tad more advice?
    Billy basic cab, input jack, + & - (red&black wires) straight to the speaker terminals, and tabs numbered 1.2.3. On the lpad..... So 2 wires and 3 lpad tabs, which goes where?
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  • SargeSarge Frets: 2429
    All the diagrams I've found use a crossover, none match my 1x
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  • SargeSarge Frets: 2429
    Ha, thanks for the removal tips, like the g clamp brace idea!
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 72549
    I think 1 will be the common ground connection, 2 the output and 3 the input, but check the diagram.

    If so, wire it like this:

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

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  • SargeSarge Frets: 2429
    Will do, thanks bud.
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  • SargeSarge Frets: 2429
    I'm not sure how to tell which is the common ground, the lpad is the monacor AT-62H if that helps?
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  • SargeSarge Frets: 2429
    Again I have to profess my adoration for @ICBM. The man be a legend!

    Thanks a lot man, now all I have to do is butcher a hole in the cabs back and mount this sucker!
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