DSL40C vs 1974x

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I'm just getting into valve amps and don't understand stuff like: why does a 1974x cost at least twice as much as a DSL40C?
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  • AdamskiAdamski Frets: 1278
    Made in Britain vs made in China
    Ones a reissue of a classic 70's amp with some nice custom grills, the other is a fuzzy piece of shite (IMO).
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  • Hi @Adamski, thanks for your comment.

    Just looking at the specification, they are both boxes with valves, wires, resistors etc and speakers. The specifications are not so far apart, so what is it that makes one good and the other a "fuzzy piece of shite"?

    I'm not doubting the value of your opinion, I'm just trying to understand where the quality of the sound comes from so I can avoid building or buying a "fuzzy piece of shite".

    Thanks, John
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  • AdamskiAdamski Frets: 1278
    I'm sure the DSL sounds ok to some people, I tried one and at first it seemed alright, typical Marshall growl always brings a smile to your face. Then I turned it up and it lost lots of clarity and started to flub quite badly in the low end, giving a very thin and shrill sound.

    The 1974 is a much cleaner amp. It's made in the uk and seems to be made to a much higher quality (whether it is or not I have no idea). When you turn it up it distorts nicely and adds dynamics while remaining quite glassy.

    Sure they may have the same type of components but it's a bit like saying that a Toyota Aygo and a Ferrari both have an engine. By no means am I a cost or tone snob but to me the made in UK reissue Marshalls sound waaaaaaaaay better than the Chinese ones.
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  • AdamskiAdamski Frets: 1278
    I will say though that if it's your first valve amp you could do worse than the DSL. Also, all ears and tastes are different so like anything, the way you're gonna know what's good and what's not to your ears is to play lots and lots and lots of amps.
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 72888
    It's mostly the amount of hand labour in the 1974 at UK labour rates compared to the smaller amount of hand work in the DSL at Chinese labour rates. The complexity of the DSL - which is mostly achieved on a machine-assembled PCB - doesn't add that much cost by comparison.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

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  • zepp76zepp76 Frets: 2534
    The DSL is made in Vietnam so cheaper labour. I don't have a problem with mine, it sounds good at all volume levels although I don't get much chance to fully turn the volume right up. It sounds good at bedroom levels and that's where I need it to shine. As @Adamski says, all ears are different.
    Tomorrow will be a good day.
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  • Adamski said:
    Ones a reissue of a classic 70's amp with some nice custom grills, the other is a fuzzy piece of shite (IMO).
    1974x is the model number, not the year they came out... They were originally produced between 1966 & 1968.

    You're right though, they are just too different to contemplate a comparison.
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  • AdamskiAdamski Frets: 1278
    edited February 2016
    thermionic;985217" said:
    Adamski said:

    Ones a reissue of a classic 70's amp with some nice custom grills, the other is a fuzzy piece of shite (IMO).

    1974x is the model number, not the year they came out... They were originally produced between 1966 & 1968.

    You're right though, they are just too different to contemplate a comparison.
    Really? I was sure it's a 70's amp. I knew 1974 didn't relate to the year though. You learn something every day!
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 72888
    The 70s version is the 'Popular' combo, which is a much inferior 10W amp with 1x12AX7 and 2xECL86 valves, usually a 2x10". They sound thin and noisy compared to the 18W.

    You often see them mis-sold as 18-watters - with or without a partial circuit conversion and/or added valve sockets - because they look very similar, although the Popular has a full-height grille cloth.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

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  • RiftAmpsRiftAmps Frets: 3191
    tFB Trader
    ICBM;985299" said:
    The 70s version is the 'Popular' combo, which is a much inferior 10W amp with 1x12AX7 and 2xECL86 valves, usually a 2x10". They sound thin and noisy compared to the 18W.

    You often see them mis-sold as 18-watters - with or without a partial circuit conversion and/or added valve sockets - because they look very similar, although the Popular has a full-height grille cloth.
    You see, I really like the 1930 Popular. The 1x12" version with a G12M is the better choice than the 2x10" but either is pretty good for low volume British crunch. The ECL86s have a great tonal character that you don't get with EL84s (although they do chime less)

    I've managed to sort out the noisy ones with a simple lead dress and/or service.
    *I no longer offer replacement speaker baffles*
    Rift Amplification
    Handwired Guitar Amplifiers
    Brackley, Northamptonshire
    www.riftamps.co.uk

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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 72888
    edited February 2016
    RiftAmps said:
    You see, I really like the 1930 Popular. The 1x12" version with a G12M is the better choice than the 2x10" but either is pretty good for low volume British crunch. The ECL86s have a great tonal character that you don't get with EL84s (although they do chime less)

    I've managed to sort out the noisy ones with a simple lead dress and/or service.
    The big problem is that the volume controls are right at the start of the circuit because there aren't enough valve stages available for a proper two-channel preamp, so unless you're always running the amp flat-out they're much noisier than an amp with them after the first stages.

    I just find them thin and ratty-sounding with no real bottom-end. I've owned a couple - both 2x10"s - one of which I converted to an 18W circuit (not bothering with the EZ81) and which was much better like that.

    That said I am not a huge fan of 18-watters either. Still not enough bottom end or proper Marshall roar. [/heresy] :)

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

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