Converting a speaker cab from a 2x12 to a 2x10

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Apologies in advance if this been covered in other threads.

I have a zilla small vintage 2x12 (in grey snakeskin how cool) but it's currently sat idle with no speakers in her due to be having the matching cab to my head. I can't stand things being unused but my dilemma is that as a 2x12 it won't get close to my rd cab so I'm thinking if options for it. Rather than try and compete with the other 2x12 I'm thinking of changing the flavour by adding 10s.

So I ask you. How difficult is it to change out a speaker baffle?

Thanks

Bo
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Comments

  • ICBMICBM Frets: 72761
    You don't need to - make two plywood rings with mountings for the new speakers and fit them to the original holes. If you attach the rings to the 10"s first you don't even need T-nuts or other 'proper' mountings, you can just do it with nuts and bolts. 9mm ply is about right usually.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

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  • That sounds very easy indeed! Thanks @ICBM although I was kind of hoping on it being almost physically and financially impossible so it out me off and I saved the money I'd have spent. Much appreciated mate
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  • ecc83ecc83 Frets: 1640
    edited March 2016

    I have done this for a single ten in place of a twelve.

    I cut a sub baffle which attached via the original T nuts and the 10 was front mounted to that.

    This puts the ten's cone in about the same plane as the original 12 as some folks have deemed this important even for guitar speakers! I am far from convinced but it is as easy to do as any other way so what the hurt?


    Dave.

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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 72761
    ecc83 said:

    I have done this for a single ten in place of a twelve.

    I cut a sub baffle which attached via the original T nuts and the 10 was front mounted to that.

    This puts the ten's cone in about the same plane as the original 12 as some folks have deemed this important even for guitar speakers! I am far from convinced but it is as easy to do as any other way so what the hurt?

    I'm not sure whether keeping the cone in the same plane matters, but I think front-loading vs rear-loading does make a noticeable difference - although that's purely anecdotally from experience and I could easily be wrong.

    This would actually be an easy way of testing how much difference it really makes, since it's simple to bolt the speaker to either side of the ring without changing anything else about the cabinet.

    File under "things to do next time the opportunity arises" :).

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

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  • ecc83ecc83 Frets: 1640

    "I'm not sure whether keeping the cone in the same plane matters, but I think front-loading vs rear-loading does make a noticeable difference - although that's purely anecdotally from experience and I could easily be wrong"

    Hah! I once made an innocent comment to one of the directors (who also had very good "amp ears") to the effect that front loading drive units was a standard almost everywhere EXCEPT for gitcabs.

    I was Torn to Sheds! "Sounds 'effing horrible!" "Never front load speakers, wrong, wrong, everso ****ing WRONG!"

    I still suspect it was "because that's the way we have always done it...." is more the answer! Shoot! Celestion even give you front mount gaskets!

    Dave.

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  • BowynMadleyBowynMadley Frets: 152
    Front loading isn't an option with this cab unfortunately it I'd give it a shot (and probably cock it up) and post the results. There does seem to be a lot of cork sniffing with speakers regarding ohm differences. Can anyone really tell the difference between an 8ohm g12 65 and 16ohm g12 65? Or am I just a cloth eared deafaid?
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 72761
    edited March 2016
    Front loading isn't an option with this cab unfortunately it I'd give it a shot (and probably cock it up) and post the results.
    It is - just meaning that you front load the 10s onto the rings and then rear-load those as normal into the cab, rather than rear-loading the 10s onto the rings.
    There does seem to be a lot of cork sniffing with speakers regarding ohm differences. Can anyone really tell the difference between an 8ohm g12 65 and 16ohm g12 65? Or am I just a cloth eared deafaid?
    It's hard to tell really - if you change the speaker impedance you have to change the amp's OT ratio as well and that will also make a difference… so if you hear one, which is it due to?

    It's unlikely that the two impedance speakers will sound *exactly* the same because their inductances will be different, but that may not be an important factor overall.
    ecc83 said:
    Hah! I once made an innocent comment to one of the directors (who also had very good "amp ears") to the effect that front loading drive units was a standard almost everywhere EXCEPT for gitcabs.

    I was Torn to Sheds! "Sounds 'effing horrible!" "Never front load speakers, wrong, wrong, everso ****ing WRONG!"

    I still suspect it was "because that's the way we have always done it...." is more the answer! Shoot! Celestion even give you front mount gaskets!

    My preference seems to be *generally* for rear-loading, but I've heard enough good-sounding front-loaded cabs (as well as bad ones) to think that "it depends..." is the best answer!

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

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