Mooer Eleclady Kaput ?

Dominic

I mistakenly plugged the 12v supply for an adjacent digital strymon into my Mooer Eleclady and vice versa - Played for 30 seconds and realised the flanger was not doing anything - swapped to the correct supplies - Strymon functions normally but flanger does not work although the signal goes through it whether on or Off ...........guess I cooked it 

Anything worth doing or is it toast ?

frankus

Provably just a diode but it might be an smd and they're not great to replace. I'd be interested in the case if you do bin it.

ICBM

If the signal goes through it when it's on, the protection diode and the audio path amplifier ICs are fine, it's just the delay part that's dead... fried chip, almost certainly. Or toast in other words.

I haven't looked inside this particular model but I would be amazed if it's fixable for less than the cost of a new one, if at all (easily).

randella

ICBM said:

If the signal goes through it when it's on, the protection diode and the audio path amplifier ICs are fine, it's just the delay part that's dead... fried chip, almost certainly.

There must be something in the water at the moment.  Fingers crossed for you @Dominic

Dominic

Thanks @ICBM ........confirmed my suspicion that its beyond economic repair 

ICBM

It's sadly common with these. At the prices they are new it's barely even worth me looking at them usually - only if it's something obvious that won't take much (or any) time to fault-find, and the component is easy to change, eg a broken toggle switch. Even a failed footswitch is getting up to almost uneconomical given they're a time-consuming pest to remove without damaging the board.

timhulio

Check this. D2 looks like a power diode. Test it with a multimeter. Seems unlikely 12v DC would kill the diode though...

https://stra.to/ap/Xt1x8V3u/s/a5eb74b39e309b34cb12ab08eb2e2bb3/IMG_0696.jpg?id=66509383

ICBM

It can't possibly be the diode because it wouldn't pass dry signal when the pedal is on.

However the less bad news is that it looks like it has a full-size delay chip - the big one on the left, and which is the most likely cause since these are sensitive to over-voltage - which means that it may be fixable… although if you're paying a tech to do it, still probably only borderline economic.

tabbycat

juansolo here has built madbean's current lover which is practically the same thing, same chips, same circuit (+/- the odd trimmer). you might want to ask him where these things would be most likely to blow if overpowered.

you could also try jumpering the diodes with another diode of the same value to see if that made it leap back into life.
the mn3207 is a common enough bbd chip if you wanted to try to replace that. it would mean separating the top board from the bottom though, which may be a pita.

that said, though i'm very much of the 'repair and keep serviceable kit going whenever possible' mindset (politically and ecologically speaking), being pragmatic, if you have family who want to see you this weekend and are juggling fixing this with spending time with them, it is worth considering that the donner convolution jet flanger is the eleclady in a cheaper box (which can usually be had on ebay for less than £20).

if you go replacement route, to ease your conscience about junking good bits maybe offer it to one of the makers here who can reuse the bits.

on the other hand if they want to spend the day shopping and you need an excuse not to go, you could use fixing this as an excuse.

ICBM

tabbycat said:

the mn3207 is a common enough bbd chip if you wanted to try to replace that. it would mean separating the top board from the bottom though, which may be a pita.

You can easily do it from the top if the chip legs haven't been clenched over on the underside, which they probably haven't. Cut the legs of the old one, get the body of it out of the way and remove them individually, then solder the new one in from the top.

That is assuming it's the problem - if it isn't you've spent the cost of a chip and fifteen minutes' work for no progress… it could also be one of the SM chips possibly. Whatever it is only affects the delayed part of the signal though, not the dry when the effect is on.

Flanging_Fred

My Mooer Hustle drive did a similar thing. One day "something" happened and it buggered a number of pedals on a daisy chain. Some parts inside the Mooer were melted but it still passed signal and the LED came on.

When I asked the local tech to have a look he said it was beyond practical repair. One reason I've given up on these mini pedals. If anything goes wrong it's unlikely to be repairable with those tiny smd components.