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D20 mate. With the amp DEAD AND COLD AND UNCONNECTED. clip a DMM across D20 and put the meter on Ohms. Should read close to 5 Ohms (4r7 sense R) .
Switch to DC volts and power up. The voltage should be set to 46mA. The DC balance should also be set but you won't have the kit (such as my Radford noisemeter!) so put Mk1 lug next to a speaker and adjust the trim pot for minimum hum. NB a scope CAN be used but does not correlate well with the audible minimum.
If a very early Mk1 check for a cable tie around the 12BH7 base wires, if present snip it off. You can fit a new looser one if you like.
Any other problems PM me.
Dave.
Without finding a map I assume 38/39 are the 22k MOSFET loads?
If so I strongly recommend you ship the whole thing back to B's for a repair. Pretty sure the cost will be very reasonable and they will probably know what the EM out issue is.
On the bias matter. I would not faff about "optimizing". IMHO it could only increase the clean headroom by a gnat's knacker of a dB. Note of caution to everyone? There is well over 400 V in these wee amps. You would have to be a bit stupid/careless to touch it but it would not half bite!
Dave.
If you have nothing in the input (five's don't have the bias gate) and all the pots at fully anti clock, the hum level WILL be very low. The HT-5 is probably THE quietest guitar amp on the planet! (I regularly got -80dB s/n below 5 watts) so it could be hard to hear..Or you are going deaf! Heh!
If there is no audible remnant hum the OP stage must be well in balance.
Dave.
No, I doubt that was done at the Northampton centre!
And yes, does not look pretty but if it works, it works!
Dave.
Wha?? If there is no audible hum from the OP stage and the amp seems to work well there is no need to worry about OP stage balance!
It should be understood that the vast majority of guitar amps do not bother about OPS balance (and it is a bit pointless anyway since most of them copy the PI circuit error and the drive is well FUp anyway!)
B's did not do it for the Artisan range but began to do so with the Five. I assume this is because they thought it would maximized the clean output of what is quite a low power valve in the 12BH7? The ACTUAL device used to set balance in the factory is a bespoke AC millivoltmeter reading the hum. I used a very good quality mVm with a 1mV fsd but such kit is not usually available to the average gitamp tech, hence the Mk1 lug method. (ICBM stand by for an "ee"!)
It is a nice check to make, makes an already V quiet amp quieter, but in truth is probably lily gilding? Especially in the bigger amps. Do not sweat it!
Dave.
Yes! You are right! It DOES balance the two anode currents. You are also right that this is usually done by a sense R in each cathode but that would have added a bit of cost and complication and it is Just as easy (if you have the kit!) to set the stage for minimum hum (it is because the then designer was ANAL about noise levels that the amp was push pull! How much simpler to just go for the Bog S EL84 solution? )
Dave.