Cab build (and refurb) projects

CHrisP86

Wow, had sort of forgotten about this thread.

Pics were just of a badly refinished head shell so probably no use to you.

I haven't actually managed to find time to build anything yet. Would still really like to. My thoughts from 2 years of procrastinating...

Think I would use max 15mm ply, poplar ply if possible to keep weight down. Did recently make a speaker baffle to turn a 2x10 in to 1x12 and think 12mm ply is strong enough for baffle and cabinet back.

Construction wise, I fancy trying lock joints, possibly with pocket hole screws (bought the kreg jig in a whim off amazon) but to be honest as long as you keep it square, glued butt joint is probably fine with nails or screws to hold it together a bit.

Tolexing is tricky but get decent glue and you should be ok. I found it easiest rolling the cab on to the tolex rather than trying to lay the tolex on the cab, if that makes sense. I'd suggest using corner protectors on the cab to save the faff of getting perfect corner joints.

I think it will be fun but probably not as cheap as you think. You might find a second hand zilla cab for not a lot more than the cost of the raw materials when you add the speakers in to the mix.

Bod

Thanks for the comprehensive reply!

I'm really a woodworking novice so I'm going as basic as possible (ie screwed and glued butt joints).  I was also hoping to get B&Q to do most of the cutting for me, which means I'm pretty much forced to build with 18mm ply, so I'm a bit concerned about weight.  I have considered just buying one, but where's the fun in that?  

I have a few concerns about the construction process, but mainly how to make sure the cabinet is square.  Would a belt clamp or two be a good idea?

Chalky

I just built my first cab, a 1x12 in 18mm construction ply. My first dovetail joints turned out barely adequate. They held ok when glued but I decided not to risk later problems so strengthened with cleats inside each of the 4 mating edges. Baffle from 11mm ply, cut out the circle with a jigsaw, glued and screwed to all 4 battens at the front. Mounted speaker and sounds fine. Just deciding which tolex to go for.

My research on dimensions was fairly extensive and the results were that some folks think it really matters and some don't. So as @ecc83 suggested I went around measuring open back cabs. Sizes varied significantly. And what stood out was that boutique amp makers, who would presumably want to get cab size 'just right', seem to go for small cabs, as if the cost of materials was the main factor. So I built it small too - the baffle is about 420mm wide and about 380mm tall. Cab depth is about 240mm.

Only tried it with one speaker so far but I'm happy. When I get a moment I want to set it up with my combo amp, to compare the difference between them. Very much doubt that I will hear more than the speaker difference though

CHrisP86

Most timber merchants offer cutting services and will no doubt be selling better quality ply than B&Q. 

Any plywood I've ever had from places like B&Q and Wickes always has loads of voids and uneven layers.  How much difference it makes I don't know but must affect resonance somehow.

Butt joint will be fine.  Cleats as Chalky mentioned probably a good idea too.

This is really making me wish I didn't have a bathroom to refinish and a house to re-decorate, so I could start an actually fun project...

Chalky

Well said @CHrisP86! Building a cab is best viewed as a "fun project". Won't save you money or deliver the best cab you've ever seen. But it will be YOUR cab And as my Dad used to say, sandpaper and elbow grease can fix a multitude of carpentry glitches!