Stupid question - speaker cab wiring

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BridgehouseBridgehouse Frets: 24581
edited November 2016 in Amps
Just got hold of a 2x12 which I'm restoring.

Its got 2 8ohm 70s rola celestion g12/75s in it which I want to keep.

Going to rewire and replace the back panel, but I want to do twin jacks so I can wire serial and parallel for 4 and 16 ohm input. 

I dont one want to use the Marshall panel as I don't like the look of the PCB - so what's the best way to do it? If I can avoid a DPDT I'd rather as it's messy and I will have to faff about with mounting it. 

Any ideas?


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Comments

  • ICBMICBM Frets: 72571
    It can be done with two two-pole switching jacks - like the Cliff/Re-An ones Marshall use - but that still relies on the jack switch contacts, which are not all that reliable. A single jack and a good heavy-duty DPDT is better.

    I can give you the connections for doing it with the two jacks if you want though.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

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  • BridgehouseBridgehouse Frets: 24581
    @ICBM - That would be great if you could! 

    I'm going for 2 jacks for simplicity I suppose. I'm the sort of idiot that would forget to flip the switch
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 72571
    edited November 2016
    It seems to be hard to find a schematic online, but I can list the connections. You might want to draw it out yourself to see how it works and so you can wire it up visually:

    16-ohm jack:

    Tip contact - speaker A+
    Sleeve contact - speaker B-
    Tip switch - 4-ohm tip contact and speaker B+
    Sleeve switch - 4-ohm sleeve contact and speaker A-

    4-ohm jack:

    Tip and sleeve contacts - as above
    Tip and sleeve switches - to each other (Or for better reliability, one switch to the other contact - probably best to go ground switch to tip contact since that avoids the risk of the contact not opening fully if the plug is only pushed halfway in.)

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

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  • BridgehouseBridgehouse Frets: 24581
    Thanks @ICBM - Presumably something like these Neutrik ones would do the job: http://www.ampmaker.com/store/JTM-type-jack-socket.html

    I'm going to do a potato-fisted drawing based on your connections above and paste here so other folks who want to do this can use it if they like. 
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 72571
    Thanks @ICBM - Presumably something like these Neutrik ones would do the job: http://www.ampmaker.com/store/JTM-type-jack-socket.html
    Yes, those are fine.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

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  • BridgehouseBridgehouse Frets: 24581
    edited November 2016

    Thanks again @ICBM very kind of you.

    Here's my potato drawing (apologies for hashed lines denoting crossing wires!) **Edit - changed as per ICBM's comments**




    Does this look right?
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 72571
    Not quite, you've got some extra wires. Only the 16-ohm jack 1 should go to A+ and 4 to B-, the wires from A+ to 4-ohm 1 and B- to 4-ohm 4 shouldn't be there. That will make the drawing simpler too :).

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

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  • BridgehouseBridgehouse Frets: 24581
    Thanks @ICBM - I've edited the pic in the post above so anyone looking here for reference in the future doesn't get confused between multiple diagrams!! Have deleted A+ to 4Ohm 1 and B- to 4Ohm 4. 

    Have I got there now? ;)
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 72571
    Yes, the drawing is now right - but you've got your number labelling wrong, I only just noticed!

    As drawn, 1 is tip contact (correct), 2 is tip switch (not sleeve contact), 3 is sleeve switch (not tip switch) and 4 is sleeve contact (correct).

    Sorry :).

    It's such a good drawing I'd like to save it for future use though, if that's OK.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

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  • BridgehouseBridgehouse Frets: 24581
    ICBM said:
    Yes, the drawing is now right - but you've got your number labelling wrong, I only just noticed!

    As drawn, 1 is tip contact (correct), 2 is tip switch (not sleeve contact), 3 is sleeve switch (not tip switch) and 4 is sleeve contact (correct).

    Sorry :).

    It's such a good drawing I'd like to save it for future use though, if that's OK.
    D'oh, you're right. 

    I'll edit the label box now. 
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  • BridgehouseBridgehouse Frets: 24581
    edited November 2016
    @ICBM - now updated with the right labels *blush*

    Absolutely fine to save and use as you want to. After all, it's your layout - I just crayoned it up ;)
    And thanks again - I'm off to order a twin jack plate, 2 jacks and a bunch of wire...

    Hopefully this will be useful for anyone searching around and stumbling on this!
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